Drive Shaft Removal

Oh great! Drive shaft is on back order with no production date scheduled. The search begins
 
Oh great! Drive shaft is on back order with no production date scheduled. The search begins

:( thats a pain.

Triumph, when are you going to listen to your loyal, loving followers and supporters. If you made parts a little more accessible the whole world would be more interested in your product and your followers would become happy clients sprooking your brand and advertising for you. Help us keep your branded bikes on the road not in workshops waiting for things!
 
Oh great! Drive shaft is on back order with no production date scheduled. The search begins

Carl even though they do not have one listed I would call pinwall cylce parts in Ohio and see if they might have one.

635 3rd Street Northwest Massillon, OH 44647
(330) 879-9910
 
Hello,
I've looked at the manual and I can't figure this out.
Can I remove the drive shaft without removing the rear swing arm? I think I have a bad universal joint and want to take a look. Seems pretty easy if I don't need to remove swing arm. Does it slide right out after removing final drive?
My local dealer can't look at the bike for 8 weeks. I did read somewhere that the universal joint is not replaceable. I guess I'll buy the drive shaft if I need to. Hate to shut the bike down too long in the middle of the summer.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Carl

CK, what makes you think the U joint is bad anyway? Noise, vibration?
 
CK, what makes you think the U joint is bad anyway? Noise, vibration?

seeya,
I don't know that it is. But, I don't want to take it apart and then have no parts. I'd run it till it blew but I don't want a rear wheel lockup. There is a clank between decelerating and accelerating in every gear. Sounds like a metal slap. I’ve been riding around hanging on the side for a couple of weeks trying to listen.
It’s too far forward to be the final drive.
Ther eis too much play in the drive line to get it to do it on a jack.
I have a philosophy that has worked pretty well over the years. When you don’t know what’s wrong start with the cheapest part.
 
Carl even though they do not have one listed I would call pinwall cylce parts in Ohio and see if they might have one.

635 3rd Street Northwest Massillon, OH 44647
(330) 879-9910

Thanks Warp.....I'll give them a call.
Carl
 
seeya,
I don't know that it is. But, I don't want to take it apart and then have no parts. I'd run it till it blew but I don't want a rear wheel lockup. There is a clank between decelerating and accelerating in every gear. Sounds like a metal slap. I’ve been riding around hanging on the side for a couple of weeks trying to listen.
It’s too far forward to be the final drive.
Ther eis too much play in the drive line to get it to do it on a jack.
I have a philosophy that has worked pretty well over the years. When you don’t know what’s wrong start with the cheapest part.

Drive shafts aren't cheap but they are less then the final drives:D

Have you looked at the cushion drive in the rear?

Oh and the bike tracks pretty good when the driveline locks up at 80+ mph been there done that ate the tire also? Bent tranny shaft exploded internal clutch hubb motor stops quickly :mad:

A little on the scarry side I must admit. I quickly relised and looked for where I might be able to bail off the bike if I had to. A thought I hope to never have again!!!!

Threw my drawers away :eek:
 
:( thats a pain.

Triumph, when are you going to listen to your loyal, loving followers and supporters. If you made parts a little more accessible the whole world would be more interested in your product and your followers would become happy clients sprooking your brand and advertising for you. Help us keep your branded bikes on the road not in workshops waiting for things!

Hey Ponters,
Yes, it's nice to have a bike that's different but the price is no parts and service.
Carl
 
Bone dry!

Just in case there are some others out there that are as uninformed as I am I’ll finish by providing my experience and giving my final results. I removed my driveshaft and the U joints were fine. (they should be replaceable – big rip off that they are not sold separately) I thought to myself…oh no, must be the transmission. When I pulled off the final drive the spline on the end of the drive shaft was bone dry and rusty. I have always installed my own tires and never thought to remove the final drive and grease that spline. It was obvious that there has never been any grease on that spline at any time. I’d be willing to bet when I had my final drive replaced in a recall back in 06 they didn’t apply any grease.
I greased that spline and put the bike back together. To my amazement the clank noise is gone!
Anyway, the noise I was hearing when going from decelerating to accelerating must have been coming from that spline being stuck and then breaking free to move laterally every time it got engine torque. That noise resonated up to the U joint. Might even been making it jerk. It was a loud clanking sound.
Initially, to determine if it was in the drive shaft I was riding with one finger on the forward rubber drive shaft cover and you could feel the drive shaft jerking. Thus my assumption was a U joint.
Anyway, be sure to take the final drive off every time you replace the rear tire and grease that spline.
Lesson learned!
 
Mate , i would let your Dealer know what you have found. I had the same experience, my spline was rooted though. A mate at a Triumph Dealership went through every directive back to 2006, Triumph has ' never ' told their techs to grease that spline. It is not mentioned on any ' sceduled service ' so it is never done. After finding these facts out i contacted Triumph Australia. They replaced the driveshaft ( i've got a spare now ) and the spline in the diff under warranty. At the time mine stuffed up i was actually a couple of months out of warranty. I had done a lot of miles in the first 2 years but they still came to the party .. after a bit of shoving. Like i said i grease mine every time a get a new back tyre now.
 
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