mutt--that was the point about the dust !! that r3 has been sitting for a long time, while i wait to hit lottery and finish it!! (plus--you'll notice there is no hydraulic line hooked up!)
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--walt, i don't even run 130 these days! speed limit only!
Oh no.......we dont have a trailer queen in the making do we!!!! LOL (j/k)
Actual I like those rotors. For somebody like me who wont be riding over 100mph too often those could work!
Its hard to not like the price on these. Give them try, only thing I have heard bad is when people run the EBC pads on stock rotors, on the valkyries, they do not last as long as the honda factory pads. No idea how they will work with their own rotors though, looks good to me.
Most of the EBC sintered pads do not last as long as stock, and they tend to be hard on rotors as well. But, IMHO, that is the price of improved performance.
Iron rotors tend to grab harder than stainless rotors. But they do tend to develop minor surface rust on the wear surfaces when ridden in the wet.
What the R3s need is a true radial master cylinder with a bit larger piston bore diameter, but this will require replacing the MC/throttle tube assembly. Radial monoblock calipers woudn't be a bad idea either - on higher performance R3s.
I just replaced the brake pads, front and rear, with the EBC "HH". Thanks for the quick delivery Flip.
The original "GG" pads were'nt in that bad of shape, however one rear pad was extremely worn on one end. Anyone know why? Should an anti-seize be used on the piston side of the pad as is used with automobiles?
Thanks,
Mark
Sounds like you need to grease the pins when you make the change. They get caked with dust and cause irregular pressure on one side leading to one pad wearing quicker.
Unless I missed something....in that case the masses will jump in and "school" me!!!