Clutch failure

Aloha....out riding yesterday...2009 Rocket3. Under 10K. Nasty noise and curbside. First thought I snapped the clutch cable...nada...clutch engager arm is flopping around....have found there is a weak design flaw with some pin ..lifter piece..and chatting with some folks and checking manual this looks like it is the issue as the head of the pin snaps.... Anyhow, on bike bandit it shows a motor number of 249178 and higher as there must have been a change over near then. Seems a low number for a 2009. I don't have the bike in front of me and want to order parts so wondering if anyone has some info on engine number and aprox year this change was made. Couple more questions

Parts to buy-Lifter piece.
Front gasket
New antifreeze as I have to remove the radiator.
Oil change....might as well s I will dumping the oil.
Thoughts on any other parts needed? I see a few small parts and a bearing also that I may just replace.

My question is as I have never torn into a Rockets clutch...I assume the head of the pin inserts into the front pressure plate. I need to dig this piece out so will the front plate need to be removed as I assume the pin inserts and is set on the back side of the plate or is it attached on the front facing portion? no schematic to look at in the manual.

patrol21 said:

Aloha....out riding yesterday...2009 Rocket3. Under 10K. Nasty noise and curbside. First thought I snapped the clutch cable...nada...clutch engager arm is flopping around....have found there is a weak design flaw with some pin ..lifter piece..and chatting with some folks and checking manual this looks like it is the issue as the head of the pin snaps.... Anyhow, on bike bandit it shows a motor number of 249178 and higher as there must have been a change over near then. Seems a low number for a 2009. I don't have the bike in front of me and want to order parts so wondering if anyone has some info on engine number and aprox year this change was made. Couple more questions

Parts to buy-Lifter piece.
Front gasket
New antifreeze as I have to remove the radiator.
Oil change....might as well s I will dumping the oil.
Thoughts on any other parts needed? I see a few small parts and a bearing also that I may just replace.

My question is as I have never torn into a Rockets clutch...I assume the head of the pin inserts into the front pressure plate. I need to dig this piece out so will the front plate need to be removed as I assume the pin inserts and is set on the back side of the plate or is it attached on the front facing portion? no schematic to look at in the manual.

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Usually the lifter shaft is what breaks. not that you could not have snapped the lifter piece. Easy to tell if the shaft is snapped. Since it is floppy unhook the cable end from it and them pull it out. if it comes out you will see if it is broken.

It will look like the top one in the picture below.



Personally I would take it apart and see what is broken first. but if not then order lifter shaft and the lifter piece. I would also order from Andy at NCY it will be less then bike bandit.
andy@ncyyamaha.com

Seed him the vin number of the bike and the engine number he will get you going. I would tell him you want the lifter piece part number as in below or newer.


here is the whole assembly



You can see the lifter piece fits in the back of the pressure plate in a roller bearing. The older bikes had a different pressure plate and lifter piece. So if you did snap the head off it will be laying in the sump pan. You will be able to find it. also there is a alignment mark on the lifter shaft arm and the end of the lifter shaft take not of its location for re-assembly.



The reason I say take it apart to see what is bad and what is in it. Is there was a feller that made a video of tearing his 08 Classic down and it had the 04 to 05 clutch system in it for some reason. My guess is because the assembly line ran out of parts so they put the older stuff in it.
When you go to drain the radiator do not pull the lower hose. It is easier to put a pan under the water pump. crack the three bolts on the cover loose the you will see a screw driver slot at the bottom of the cover. A little pry with a screw driver and the coolant will be running into the pan. when you done just remove the three loose bolt on the pump cover and pull the hose and cover with the radiator. The you will only have to unhook the top hose and the little 1/2" hose on the bottom right of the radiator. Make sure you have a 3/8 drive torque wrench as you will want to follow the prescribed torque specifications. especially the clutch spring bolts.

Parts to buy
Lifter piece. (possible)
Lifter shaft. (possible)
Front gasket
New antifreeze
Oil change

Andy will not steer you wrong even the guys from OZ order from him.
4 hour job the first time then you will be faster. 6 hours if you partake in barley soda, bull****ting, and general man enjoyment

Also if you want to save some time leave the front wheel and fender on the bike just cover the fender with one of the wifey's nice bath towels. (don't get caught ) Then just be very careful when pulling/installing the radiator. Any you will have knocked off about a hour from the job.

HI Warp...yeah..I have a feeling its the lifter shaft..first pics...looking at the bike prior to the 100 dollar tow....I grabbed the pivot arm that this geared piece is attached to and I could pull it a half inch or so. Getting to that will require I open it up anyway to remove the broken head. Hell I have nothing better to do with 6 hours...LOL. I see the piece on bike bandit...If that is all the issue is no screwing with the pressure plate...still miffed (I was advised) that I cannot access this by the front round plate? Was told if you remove the cover its just a noise gasket which makes "" sense to me. Your thoughts

patrol21 said:

HI Warp...yeah..I have a feeling its the lifter shaft..first pics...looking at the bike prior to the 100 dollar tow....I grabbed the pivot arm that this geared piece is attached to and I could pull it a half inch or so. Getting to that will require I open it up anyway to remove the broken head. Hell I have nothing better to do with 6 hours...LOL. I see the piece on bike bandit...If that is all the issue is no screwing with the pressure plate...still miffed (I was advised) that I cannot access this by the front round plate? Was told if you remove the cover its just a noise gasket which makes "" sense to me. Your thoughts

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Yes the chrome cover is a vibration dampener The cover has to come off leave the chrome one attached to it as it does not get in your way. If it is just the lifter shaft and the lifer piece is not damaged then you will not have to pull the pressure plate. The reason it broke most likely is lack of free play so it over rotated. Another way they break from lack of free play is they get burnt which also happens if you hold the clutch in a rev the engine showing off If it burnt and you noticed you needed to adjust it you had to make up for the material being lost and adjust it so it rotates more to lift the clutch but to much and snap ola. Below is a good shot of a burnt lifter shaft compared to a new one.

Yep...have a feeling I did not have correct tension. I tightened the clutch cable a few days ago....as I moved the clutch handle setting to four as I have been sitting in traffic and my hand was going knumb. Have a feeling doing both had not enough free play and it cooked it..live and learn. Anyhow, my thanks. tearing into this tonight. Me without a ride is like not having my nuts. Cheers!

patrol21 said:

Yep...have a feeling I did not have correct tension. I tightened the clutch cable a few days ago....as I moved the clutch handle setting to four as I have been sitting in traffic and my hand was going knumb. Have a feeling doing both had not enough free play and it cooked it..live and learn. Anyhow, my thanks. tearing into this tonight. Me without a ride is like not having my nuts. Cheers!

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I broke the exact same piece. Good luck with it.

Ok, got it down to the case...yep broke the lifter piece. Cannot get the case off. Steel rod that heads to the water pump has to come off to get the case off. What trickery is this?

Follow what @warp9.9 said with his advice, and also install his external spring rather than the internal one. You will be so happy that you did. The manual is in my signature, as are instructions for changing the Detent Spring. These instructions will work for the clutch parts as well, although you will not have to pull the clutch basket out and a few other things involved with the Detent Spring.

Still need to know how to get the front plate off. The steel rod will not let the front plate pass

patrol21 said:

Still need to know how to get the front plate off. The steel rod will not let the front plate pass

Click to expand...

Try turning the steel rod counter clockwise.
just a guess.