Steel
Resident Coonass
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2012
- Messages
- 7,849
- Location
- Cut Off, Louisiana USA
- Ride
- 2012 Roadster & 2006 Classic
I always was the black sheep.
Charging Issue
- Thread starter R3Tex
- Start date
dawb
.060 Over
Just replaced battery (which tested fine) on my 2013, fixed all odd **** going on. Spend the $100 bucks and spend more time riding.
Bernard Vinet
Frenchbernie
Hey Tex
I would say a bad battery. Right of the bat the battery charged should give minimum upper 12V or low 13V. If Battery won't hold charge then that's probably
your problem. A real old school manual charger is a great thing, it give a full charge without any gadgets to turn it off . You charge three hours and manually turn it off. Can't go wrong
I would say a bad battery. Right of the bat the battery charged should give minimum upper 12V or low 13V. If Battery won't hold charge then that's probably
your problem. A real old school manual charger is a great thing, it give a full charge without any gadgets to turn it off . You charge three hours and manually turn it off. Can't go wrong
R3Tex
Living Legend
Well...still got issues. I replaced the battery a while back and thought all was well, but she almosy stranded me again tonight. Looking back I probably haven't ridden it far enough for the charging issue to become apparent since it stays on a battery tender all the time.
I've been riding short hops the last few days so it hasn't been on the tender and the battery is dead again. Will start diagnostics tomorrow
I've been riding short hops the last few days so it hasn't been on the tender and the battery is dead again. Will start diagnostics tomorrow
Joesmoe
IMOKUR2
That is disheartening.
I would suggest you follow @DEcosse sequence for testing the stator -- up/down test. If it tests 'good', then your heart should lighten, and know you'll get to something that will be able to fix without taking the bike apart. If that tests bad, well then, you'll have a decision to make.
In any case, keep us posted, and hope it is something simple that doesn't take you 100 tries before you find it.
I would suggest you follow @DEcosse sequence for testing the stator -- up/down test. If it tests 'good', then your heart should lighten, and know you'll get to something that will be able to fix without taking the bike apart. If that tests bad, well then, you'll have a decision to make.
In any case, keep us posted, and hope it is something simple that doesn't take you 100 tries before you find it.
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
Morris,
Merely for your FTI -
I had mine (new battery) on a trickle charger (a little 1.5v Battery Tender) whilst working on my new rear light array (headlight was off).
I was very surprised at how fast just the three taillights I have could run the battery down enough to no start.
Merely for your FTI -
I had mine (new battery) on a trickle charger (a little 1.5v Battery Tender) whilst working on my new rear light array (headlight was off).
I was very surprised at how fast just the three taillights I have could run the battery down enough to no start.
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
sonny
Living Legend
At times have purchased a new battery that was not what you would call a good one. Would not hold a charge from the start.
something to look into.
ratsidecar
.060 Over
Yup I got a motobatt unit from a seller on ebay which was DOA, looking at the date code it was over 2 years old already and had never been out of packaging for its specified maintenance charge etc.
Ended up getting a wet battery from local friendly bike mechanic. He says the gel ones are good if you can get a fresh one that has been manufactured very recently, but a good old fashioned battery that you have to fill yourself with an acid pack only starts its life cycle once the acid has been added. Just buy a reputable branded one, follow the instructions for how long to let it sit for and fill it yourself or have someone fill it in front of you so you know its going to be fresh and you should be rewarded with a good battery service life.
My last lead acid battery in the bike was 4 and a half years old when I changed and I only replace it because I was having issues with the lower than it should have been resting voltage causing connection errors with tuneecu. It still started the bike fine, even after being sitting for a few weeks.
Ended up getting a wet battery from local friendly bike mechanic. He says the gel ones are good if you can get a fresh one that has been manufactured very recently, but a good old fashioned battery that you have to fill yourself with an acid pack only starts its life cycle once the acid has been added. Just buy a reputable branded one, follow the instructions for how long to let it sit for and fill it yourself or have someone fill it in front of you so you know its going to be fresh and you should be rewarded with a good battery service life.
My last lead acid battery in the bike was 4 and a half years old when I changed and I only replace it because I was having issues with the lower than it should have been resting voltage causing connection errors with tuneecu. It still started the bike fine, even after being sitting for a few weeks.
R3Tex
Living Legend
Don't think it's the battery but I will check it oit today. I'm pretty sure that the bike has been running off the battery this whole time. Since it hasn't been very far without going back on the tender (thank God) it didn't get the chance to strand me.
I'm headed out to the shop in a bit to do a little more diagnostic work. BTW...put it on the trickle charger overnight and it is back up and starts this morning
I'm headed out to the shop in a bit to do a little more diagnostic work. BTW...put it on the trickle charger overnight and it is back up and starts this morning
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