While on the subject of brakes, Just be mindful of the guide pins as shown. I had a bad experience on a recent ride and I had only one side of the pair of pads working due to the guide pin had seized and rusted and went un noticed as it was a gradual thing. It also meant that extra strain was put onto one side of the disc. The rubber boot had moved or was never sitting correctly and allowed the ingress of moisture behind the rubber boot. I ended up purchasing a new rear assembly. Not sure if anyone has had this before but keep an eye on it and check that it travels freely.
Sometimes manuals suck, don't they? They just don't want you try doing things yourself. I can't see any advantage in removing the calipers and substituting the disc for a piece of metal the same thickness. I'd just follow Jeff Cameron's steps..
Sometimes manuals suck, don't they? They just don't want you try doing things yourself. I can't see any advantage in removing the calipers and substituting the disc for a piece of metal the same thickness. I'd just follow Jeff Cameron's steps..
I have always used a Mity Vac to bleed my brake systems on previous bikes. Right now the fluid on my R3 is nice and clear with just the hint of yellow. If your fluid looks like a pint of Guinness Stout then it may time to flush your system. Another option is to swap your bleeder screws with a set from Speed Bleeder. These allow you to bleed your brakes while allowing the bleed screw to remain open a crack. A check valve in the bleed screw allows this to happen, making it a 1 person operation.
I have bled the ABS brakes on my 2011 R3t twice ,and didn't know about the solenoid thing just pumped the fluid through like all brake systems till I got new fluid out of the bleeder, the amount of fluid I pumped through was a lot more than the master cylinders hold so I figure the ABS unit must have been bled as well, if not at least the fluid at the slave cylinders and master cylinders as well as the brake lines is fresh , works for me!
I bled mine last summer after they got spongy and the ABS was kicking on way too soon.
Did nothing special and everything worked out well. I thought the dealer thingy was if you disconnected lines.
Not sure - wish I knew the definitive answer.
I use a small turkey baster to draw the fluid out of the master cylinder then fill it back up then loosen the bleeder valve till the new fluid comes out making sure that the master cylinder don't get to low when the new fluid comes out tighten the bleeder screw and ur done
I use a small turkey baster to draw the fluid out of the master cylinder then fill it back up then loosen the bleeder valve till the new fluid comes out making sure that the master cylinder don't get to low when the new fluid comes out tighten the bleeder screw and ur done