Brute exhaust installation

1. I noticed some high-temp silicone sealant around the copper exhaust header crush rings. Is new silicone sealant required for this install, or can I just use new crush rings?
2. The exhaust header bolt anchor nuts aren't deep enough. Any problem using SS nuts and then the acorn nut at the end?
3. Any problem using high-temp grease between the exhaust collector and three pipes? It would greatly help positioning.
4. When getting rid of the O2 sensor, do I remove it all the way up to the ECU? Just cut the wires? Zip tie it to the frame and leave it there?
5. The used exhaust springs I received are a little stretched. Looks like 3 are smaller 3-3/16" and 3 are larger 3-5/8" from inside of hook to inside of hook. Any recommendations for good black replacement springs and lengths?

alpental said:

Hey guys, hoping for a little advice here. I'm installing a used Carpenter Racing Brute exhaust, and have a few questions:

1. I noticed some high-temp silicone sealant around the copper exhaust header crush rings. Is new silicone sealant required for this install, or can I just use new crush rings?
2. The exhaust header bolt anchor nuts aren't deep enough. Any problem using SS nuts and then the acorn nut at the end?
3. Any problem using high-temp grease between the exhaust collector and three pipes? It would greatly help positioning.
4. When getting rid of the O2 sensor, do I remove it all the way up to the ECU? Just cut the wires? Zip tie it to the frame and leave it there?
5. The used exhaust springs I received are a little stretched. Looks like 3 are smaller 3-3/16" and 3 are larger 3-5/8" from inside of hook to inside of hook. Any recommendations for good black replacement springs and lengths?

Thanks for the guidance...

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1olbull said:

Abe,
Can't help you with any Brute header dope, but congrats on getting it and I know you will love the performance difference over stock or TORs.
Have you different intake as well? Get it properly tuned as well.
If not using PCV with AT, I would consider removing the O2 completely and installing a plug.

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IMFASTTOO said:

You can use the nuts you mentioned do not use grease on the pipes and dont cut the wires call carpenter for new springs you can use sealant on the exhaust crush rings

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Claviger said:

Just so you know, the silicone on the gaskets is only used to hold them in place during assembly at the factory. They use WAY too much at Hinkley, just a little dab will hold the gaskets in place, or you can forgo it all together.

You don't need acorn nuts, just use some normal locking nuts, I put black Ti nuts on mine, no backing off, works great.

High temp non hardening sealant is always a good idea on any slip joint, a little goes far.

There is no reason to not reinstall the o2 sensor. If you really don't want to, just unplug and disable in TuneECU, don't leave it hanging there lol.

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Claviger said:

Just so you know, the silicone on the gaskets is only used to hold them in place during assembly at the factory. They use WAY too much at Hinkley, just a little dab will hold the gaskets in place, or you can forgo it all together.

You don't need acorn nuts, just use some normal locking nuts, I put black Ti nuts on mine, no backing off, works great.

High temp non hardening sealant is always a good idea on any slip joint, a little goes far.

There is no reason to not reinstall the o2 sensor. If you really don't want to, just unplug and disable in TuneECU, don't leave it hanging there lol.

Click to expand...