Break-in period on Rocket


.060 Over
Aug 11, 2006
Just bought the 06 Rocket, it says to change the oil at 500 miles, I've heard 1000 mi. Manual says to use 10w40 or 5w50. Is there a good place to get good oil or just get it from the dealer? Is it worth having the dealer do at least the first oil change and check. Was going to do it myself. Any other tips during break-in period?
Whatta great riding bike!
Was It Worth The Wait?

Finally! There's no way to describe the thrill the first time you put some torque to the road and try to hold on for dear life.

My dealer suggested 500 miles with the "break-in" oil and then change over to Mobil 1 synthetic. Though Triumph says you can go 10,000 miles on the Mobil 1, several folks in the forum suggested every 5,000 to 7,000 just to be safe. I just passed 6,700 miles and had them change it out. The mechanic said it was getting black, which is a good thing, but no particles or metal shavings. That's also a good thing!

Keep us all posted on your first few rides.
Break in tips.

I bought a new Thruxton last fall, which I traded for my new r3 in July. The reason I mention this is that I thought when I changed the oil for the first time on the Thruxton, I would switch to "something better". That's typical of my attitude - I'll find "something better" than what's recommended - and I find I'm usually wrong. So, I began researching other oils and to make a long story short, when I couldn't find the fully-synthetic Mobil Racing 4T 15w-50 at our local Mobil DISTRIBUTOR(!!), and they KNEW NOTHING(!!) about it, I decided to call Mobil International. After a long series of hoopjumping through the internet/corporate maze, I reached a guy who could tell me all sorts of facts and figures about the Mobil Racing oil Triumph dealers sell and is not (at least here in Southwest Missouri) available from regional distributors. I was so impressed by his comment, I saved it in my e-mail file. And that was that "this oil is blended specifically for Triumph". Doubters and skeptics aside, that's what he told me. So, end of story. I'll not use any other oil in a Triumph. My dealer told me of a scenario in which they had to repair an engine under warranty for a customer that "babied" the engine so delicately during breakin that the rings had'nt seated by 500 miles when he went to the full synthetic, so they now advise the first oil change at 700 miles. I calculated the rpm/miles for 500 miles travelled going from low torque point (1800 rpm) to beginning redline (6500 rpm), and amortized that over the 500 miles travelled so that I could achieve ring seating (theoretically) by the end of the break-in period. I changed to full synthetic yesterday at 800 miles and everything seems to work out as planned. Good luck. Enjoy a fantastic ride!
500 miles....... more than an oil change.

There is quite a bit more than an oil change at 500 miles......
A good reputable dealer will:
Engine, check for leaks.
Engine oil, renew.
Engine oil filter, renew.
Engine ECM, check for stored DTC (trouble codes).
Throttle cables, check and adjust.
Cooling system check for leaks.
Coolant level, check and adjust.
Fuel system, check forleaks.
Lights instruments, electrical systems, check.
Steering, check for free operation
Headstock bearings, check & adjust.
Forks, check for leaks and smooth operation.
Brake fluid levels, check.
Brake pad wear, check.
Brake calipers, check for leaks and seizures.
Brake master cylinders, check for leaks.
Final drive, check for oil leaks.
Final drive oil, check.
Fastners, inspect for security.
Wheels, inspect for damage.
Tire wear, Tire damage, check.
Tire pressure, check, adjust.
Clutch cable, check, adjust.
Sidestand, check operation.

The dealer actually has a checkoff list that has to be completed and submitted to Triumph with the serial number of the unit. When my dealer did my 500 mile service, I went over the bike when I got it home to see if they (dealer) actually did the items on the checkoff and they did. I also had an intermittent stalling problem which was traced to unbalanced throttle plates and fixed (at least it disappeared after the 500 mile service).

I know, a lot of that can be done by the owner, but the first service on anything, be it a bike, car, snowmobile or whatever, in my opinion, should be done by the selling dealer for if nothing else, peace of mind.

I use Amsoil 20-50 in my T100, but after reading about Triumph's faith in Mobil Racing 4T, I'm going back to that in the T100 also.
micheal, i had mine in for a repair of a fuel injector hose at 150 miles and the service manager told me not to bring it back till it had 700 miles on it for a break in.
Break - recommendations

Travelguy - I guess your dealer confirmed the 700-mile recommendation that the experienced dealers know of then. Not to sound too educated, but I'm basically familiar with the phenomenon of "piston (or ring) land" and the attendant pressures that occur via gas flow at high rpms and I can easily believe that someone that is inordinately "careful" with their new prized possession can do more damage than good in breaking in an engine. I don't subscribe to the theory that engines should be run hot and heavy from the very first mile ("ride it like you stole it"), but it has been my experience that an engine subjected to gradually-increased stress over an extended period of time (consistently "raising" a microscopic ring land), to (my opinion) the lower point of the beginning of the redline at just beyond break-in completion will create a more versatile, longer lasting engine. My opinion, possibly entirely wrong (each rider has to decide for themself), but has worked for me.
Mobil Synthetic

Jimbeamrye said:
Post that email if you can!

Jimbeamrye - were you asking me to post the Mobil One e-mail quote I referred to? If so, I'll try to pull it out of my reference files and send it.
Here we go again....

Mobil Racing 4T is only available from a Triumph authorized dealer so buying the oil there helps support his bottom line, which I willingly do.

I find many parallels on varied forums. On another, unrelated forum concerning compact utility tractors, posters shop far and wide for the "best" deal and then want to go right down to their local dealer when they need warranty service or advice and, of course, they want it right now. When the local dealer tells them they have to go to the end of the line because the dealer has an obligation to folks that have made their initial purchase at that dealer, they get irate and bash the dealer on the internet.:soapbox:

Motorcycles, in general have become complicated machinery, the R3 especially so. I feel much more comfortable knowing that I have a top rated dealer nearby that can handle any malady that may arise and no, I didn't nickle and dime him on price. I wanted the bike, he gave me a price with a few incentives (accessories) thrown in, and I bought it.

Bikes are a luxury for upper middle class inhabitants, not a necessity.
I, like Flip, have heard all angles with regard to motor oil. I'm sure lots of oil will work just fine for our Rockets. A couple months ago, I wrote down the oil I will use for my 6,000 ish oil change so i won't have to keep looking up what to use. Drum roll please,...............Mobil 1 MX4T 10w-40. This is a motorcycle oil and is available at NAPA. I like to support our local NAPA when ever I can.:)