Bleeding Brakes

The only extra tool I like is some tubing to slip over the bleed screw, and a can to drain it in. I have a little one from harbor freight with a magnet on it. Cute. A beer can works and puts you in a better mood fro working on a bike. :lol:
 
Dot 3, 4, or 5? I sprung for the hand pump, we are going to do both bikes.
 
I was looking this up the other day.... I believe that the service manual stated DOT 4. I'm not 100% sure, but pretty certain.
 
as I will be bringingmmy bikes out of storage in a few months I plan on completely draining and replacing the fluid, and possibly upgrading the pads..

I also remember reading that on the front brake calipers, you need to clean the pistons and some other areas ( return spring etc) to ensure good conssitent action..

so I think a thourough cleaning and draing of mine is on my list of to dos.


What brake upgrade are you planning?

Ive been tryign to research any aftermarket brake calipers and such, but might just go with better pads and brake lines.
 
What brake upgrade are you planning?

We are going to try out something called TCB Traction Control Braking System. It is not ABS, but it does simulate the feathering of the brakes so your back tire doesn't lock up. A bunch of us So. Cal Capt's met up last Sunday, and we were talking about this issue. I thought it was indicative of the R3T, but it seems that everyone at the table has the same problem.
Karl Krothenberg and I are going to put the system on our bikes and try them out. We will take pictures and post the process if we think that it is worth it to the rest of the group.
I am going to give Karl all of the credit, he is the one that tracked it down... I just jumped at the opportunity, and said that we could use my house to work on them.
 
How did it work out? looks pricy, but I'd consider it if it kept my back tire from locking up on me!
 

Great work!!! very interested to see how that goes.
 

To play devil's advocate on the points made above:

You are still forcing fluid into the brake system, whether pulling it (with the vacuum bleeder) or pushing it (with your syringe) Both would induce cavitation of the fluid; IF you did it quickly and introduced air into the system.

A slow draw with a vacuum pump is not going to introduce cavitation.

Also, one would not use a bit more fluid, as opposed to your syringe method. It just depends how "thorough" one is in making sure all the old fluid has flushed from the system.

The nice aspect of using a vacuum pump is that you don't have to pump the brake lever and/or pedal
 
PowerTripp said:
Pressure from a syringe does not induce cavitation, however both my hand and electric vacuum units do so.
Click to expand...

If your vacuum is less than 10psi, it;s not going to caviate the stream of fluid being pulled. I've used vacuum bleeders (and presently still do) and never had an issue with air in the clear vacuum bleeder lines, nor spongy brakes when I finished.
 
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