An Oil Leak

willtill said:
Mike, I believe that the coil spring you mentioned is more for protection; than reinforcement of the radiator hose. But I may be wrong.

Mine intially was delivered at time of purchase without a coil spring.
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That is a possibility I suppose but perhaps it serves both purpose. I'll post a pic later today. Right now I have to go out and spread 5 yards of crushed rock in front of my shop, and at my age. Gads!
 
Navigator said:
That is a possibility I suppose but perhaps it serves both purpose. I'll post a pic later today. Right now I have to go out and spread 5 yards of crushed rock in front of my shop, and at my age. Gads!
Click to expand...
Mike I believe will is right its there for protection not to stop the hose from swelling. I see new roadsters at the dealers that no longer have them. Myself I would still use one if possible.
Also as I discussed about the shim replacement. if none had to be shimmed then they realy had no reason to pull the clutch cover. It only has to come off when you release the chain tensioner to lift the cams up for shim install or if you for some reason change the timing chian, guides or tensioner. If non of these had to be done then I would look at the cam cover real close. there are two half moon cut outs in the head that the gasket goes when puting the gasket on one should drop a little permatex in the area to help seal it. When mine leaked it just squoze the gasket ot the side because I missed the alignment.
 

But they did have to shim it, two as I recall. I'll know more when I do a closer inspection and will post the results.
 
Yes Bones, I have seen it happen to others. usually theyr'e off one tooth. the bike still runs good but is down on power. this slao happend when the put he rback together if they do not get all the slack out of the non tensioning side of the chain. again if your not one who uses the bike hard you wouldn't notice it. but if you ride with anyone who has a rocket and you always race him all of a sudden he will be beating you when he did not before.
 
What work did you have done to her ! I have never tried it but I imagine if the timing was off a tooth due to the springs pushing the cams the intake valve would not be open as much and the exhaust would be open more. this in turn would make the static compression higher from the intake valve closing which could dog the starter down a wee bit. Agian I am curious as to what they did.
Another way is if you had her on a dyno before you could do another pull and compare the hp. Triumph Phils was down to 100 hp if memory serves me right.
 
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Yes that would do it. At least you took her to the dealership instead of trying torun it or you would be looking at buying valves and maybe a head if you were truly unlucky. I have seen the colision break a few valves. Never Never release the cam chain tensioner without the Triumph tool or a way to dial your cams back up !!!!
With the Supercharger kit you loose the inspection port on the crankshaft to gauge TDC of the crank. When I alter my timming I go in with a scope to line the carnkshaft up.
Below is a icture of my timing mark while the front cover blower and radiator is still in place along with all fluids including oil.



this is the bottom of the crank gear seen from going down thru the top of the head



the trip down





the pictures are much clearer view on the probe screen when you doing the work. I am not sure how well the video is as I have never tried that aplication.
 
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Mine developed an oil leak after I left the Hub (fall RAA). Turned out to be one of the oil plugs. I always reuse the copper washers cause I'm a cheap ass. Got bit this time. Fortunately I was able to fix it by loosening the plug and wrapping thread tape on both sides of the gasket. Only lost about a tablespoon of my $10.00 a quart Mobil 1. I had just changed the oil before the trip. Funny it waited over a thousand miles to start leaking.
 

Hi ya Scott. When I did my valves a couple years ago I found that my bottom gear didn't have a mark on it. (It has had the upgrade and I suspect the gear is on backwards). I used a dial indicator in the front cylinder. I have heard of problems with the bottom gear wallowing out the key-way. Mine has been working as is for over 30,000 miles so I hate to disturb it.
 
Fred the timing mark is on the crankshaft large driver gear that meshes with the clutch basket not the little cam chain gear on the end of the crank shaft.
 
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