2013 Roadster No Starty!

Check the overflow tank behind the bearclaw.
 
CrzystghndKC said:
Check the overflow tank behind the bearclaw.
Click to expand...
Well, here's the verdict:

Did the hot plate test on the off colored oil in a pan on the stove. When it went above 212 degrees it started to boil, snap crackle and pop like an ice cube thrown into a pan of hot bacon grease Also, after the fizzing was over and the oil quit popping it looked like regular amber oil.

I did the fill up the radiator and let it run thing too. After 25 miutes of idling and shutting it off the oil had risen another half inch or so. Also checked the water pump weep hole before starting and it wasn't clogged or blocked.
 
. . . So the verdict is my 2013 Roadster is no more. I ride at least 3 or 4 times a week. If I went through the process of pulling the head, milling, replacing the gasket, fixing everything else that would come up as worn out my estimate would be around 1 or 2 thousand clams. Not bad, but considering the MSRP of my bike if it were in running shape is only about 3000 to 3500 bucks. It would make more sense to find something younger with a full catalog of available parts.

So, if there's anybody needing parts from a complete a Gen 2 roadster let me know. I think I'll be better parting it out for the down payment on the next one.
 
Kevin Frazier has an engine for sale. I am thinking with all these guys on here they can fix your engine. Or jump up to the new Rocket.
A lot of y’all are resisting the future, it’s a bad mamma jammer. Ask @Junior about the weight distribution/power and everything else.
 
Where are you located.
 
If it was my bike i would think that the odds was more likely it was the water pump at the front of the motor.
well i think that the water pump i would replace to see if that fixed it much cheaper than the head.
a lot of times when a head gasket is blown you can see a lot of bubbles at the radiator because the compression goes into the radiator
i would not run the motor to check that because water/antifreeze is bad for the bearings rod/main.
some of the other brothers may have some thoughts on this.
if you try this then new motor oil after the water pump.
 
That is certainly food for thought. Come to think of it I didn't check for bubbles in the radiator. I think an exhaust gas test might still be in order as well
 
I'm hesitant to suggest it, but if it saves the bike from the grave it might be worth trying a coolant stop leak product. I would normally recommend it as it isn't really a fix and can cause issues too, but if you're going to scrap the bike anyway it might be worth a try.
 
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