1" handlebar clamps

[thorin]

i think we're trying to say none of us want to see that purty face messed up by asphalt.....

 

[1olbull]

Grade8 10m bolt. I think the threads would fail before the bolt broke .

Not the bolt, Amigo.
The tubing will bend with all that leverage (moment arm).

 

[Ishrub]

These ones.

Link Removed

 

[Claviger]

Looking at it, a connected top would indeed complete the box providing a more solid shape.

Try looking at Thunderbird items. They may have the same spacing.

 

[Ishrub]

Looking at it, a connected top would indeed complete the box providing a more solid shape.

Try looking at Thunderbird items. They may have the same spacing.

You could fit another headlight there too.

 

[Claviger]

Alternatively a welded center piece to connect them would work as wel and might be easier to do.

 

[BigNorm]

I don't see it happening. I had them made out of some pretty stout tubing. I have thought of sleaving it with some 1" ID tubing. All in good time.

 

[barbagris]

I don't see it happening. I had them made out of some pretty stout tubing. I have thought of sleaving it with some 1" ID tubing. All in good time.

Norm - Are you saying that's just one long bolt with a tubular sheath? If so that's really risking things. If it's tubes with welded in bungs then I stand down.

An outer sheath won't make any difference unless it is all bonded.

The problem is shear effect really. Rob's idea of a welded brace Is not bad - but I would do so at BOTH ends. Some 6mm(1/4") plate will be stiff. And at the lower end will give far more support to the top yoke.

 

[Claviger]

I wash picturing tubes, coped and welded between the risers just under the handle bar. Would look good because it’ll vanish and provide a very strong brace.

 

[barbagris]

Tube at the top - OK - but a flat bar that lies flat on teh yoke would be better at the base imo.