'08's and Tuneboys?

So, tuneboy is a $500 cable? :eek: wow. And here I thought it was at least some kind of controller that also facilitated software installs. ****-I'm-Dumb, So whats to prevent someone from using it on multiple bikes?, Codes? I tried to learn more about it on the Tuneboy website but it really does'nt explain anything except the software.
What's the PCIII? Where can I go online that might explain the two in detail?
Maybe I should just take it to the dealer this spring and have it done?
:kk:
 
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So, tuneboy is a $500 cable? :eek: wow. And here I thought it was at least some kind of controller that also facilitated software installs. ****-I'm-Dumb, So whats to prevent someone from using it on multiple bikes?, Codes? I tried to learn more about it on the Tuneboy website but it really does'nt explain anything except the software.
What's the PCIII? Where can I go online that might explain the two in detail?
Maybe I should just take it to the dealer this spring and have it done?
:kk:

I don't know what the best deal now is. I paid $400 directly to Tuneboy when it came out. The cost is for the software license, not the cable. It only works with a code you get specifically for your ECU.

Look under the Trading Tunes forum on this site. It's got everything. The PCIII is a Power Commander, made by DynoJet, which sits between your ECU and the injectors. You can dyno tune it to change the fuel mixture. Tuneboy is much more versatile but harder to Tune yourself. The custom tune for the R3T is probably a significant improvement over stock and as good as most people with a touring bike would want.

What's neat about renting a PCIII from Pig9r (if he's still doing it) is that you can take a semi-custom R3T tune from Tuneboy, install the PCIII, dyno tune that, and take the results and incorporate them into the Tuneboy R3T tune. Then you disconnect the PCIII, send it back to Pig9r, load your now customized R3T tune and voila.

It's only money.
 
So, tuneboy is a $500 cable? :eek: wow. And here I thought it was at least some kind of controller that also facilitated software installs. ****-I'm-Dumb, So whats to prevent someone from using it on multiple bikes?, Codes? I tried to learn more about it on the Tuneboy website but it really does'nt explain anything except the software.
What's the PCIII? Where can I go online that might explain the two in detail?
Maybe I should just take it to the dealer this spring and have it done?
:kk:

No, it's a $120 cable with software designed by reverse engineering (hacking) the Triumph, KTM, Aprilia ECUs... It's a unique tool and has most of the functions of the Triumph scan tool to perform maintanance.. Once you've developed and loaded your tune, you're done!! The PCIII has to be wired into the bike.. Read and compare here --> TuneBoy vs PCIII


To actually load and modify tunes, you need an unlock key (based on your ECU serial number).. Additional keys can be purchased for additional bikes for $199au (approx $140 USD)..

The software is continuously updated and new models are kept pretty up to date.. Thanx to a work done by a couple of forum members and Wayne at Tuneboy, I was able to load a published "canned" tune on my R3T and have dyno results at 125hp with just a couple of simple mods (TORs, K&N pod filters) :bch:.. It's a different bike and Worth every penny IMHO..

Remember the prices are all in $auD.. The AU exchange rate makes it more attractive, even after the Palpay exchange fees.
 
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Thanks guys, I feel like I spent a week in class. I find it incredible how behind the times I was, only been away from wrenching on cars and bikes for a living for 10 years and never realized how out of it I actually was. A very accurate quote "It's only money", I've been spending a small fortune keeping my Mini competitive in SCCA, I could save alot by just satifying my racing urge with dragging my R3 on weekends. From what I've learned on this site I think the way to go is to tune the hell out of it while keeping her basically stock, dress her up nice and enjoy the suprised looks on the faces of kids on rice rockets..... Oh hell, who am I kidding ... I can't ever leave well enough alone, where was that thread on superchargers again? lol
Seriously, I can definately see the improvement to performance possibilities for an R3T, I test rode one while mine was being assembled. BIG difference between the standard and the touring. I understand that there is a 7% reduction built into the lower gears to save us from ourselvs, can you delete that with a tuneboy? And has anyone with a standard R3 who installed a tuneboy felt that the investment was worth it? In other words, to make an R3T as powerful as an R3 would feel like a significant change, can you still feel an increase by putting a tuneboy on an R3? Did I understand correctly that you guys can even trade your custom tunes right here by just downloading them? Then just load it into the bike and try it out? If so, that is so cool.

Now that I think about it, the "power commander" was what the dealer was trying to get me to do. I didn't understand it at the time since adding a "chip" to OBDII didn't make sense. So it just goes between the computer and injectors in order to alter the injector timing? Couldn't you just do that by tinkering with the program in tuneboy?
That 7% ... am I correct in understanding that the secondaries just don't open all the way in lower gears, and that all the Triumph tune for aftermarket exhaust did was close them even more to richen the mixture? I don't like the way that sounds, at all.
Seems like a bailing wire bandage repair to me. It's no wonder I didn't notice much difference.:mad:
The Tuneboy is sounding better and better all the time!
You guys have been a great help, thanks again.:bch:
 
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I understand that there is a 7% reduction built into the lower gears to save us from ourselvs, can you delete that with a tuneboy?

The power "reduction" in the stock R3 tunes is achieved by closing the secondary throttle plates to varying extents depending on the tune - less air and less fuel. It's mainly in the first 3 gears. On my R3, the difference between stock and opening the secondaries 100% was about 12 ft lbs in the peak torque range (2700 rpm). I just looked at the stock R3T tune for aftermarket exhaust (20258) and in gears 1-3, up to 3011 rpm, the secondaries are open no more than 34%. This has to hurt.

There was some discussion that the cams in the R3T were different than the standard R3 and that this lowered the power. I don't know about this.

And has anyone with a standard R3 who installed a tuneboy felt that the investment was worth it? In other words, to make an R3T as powerful as an R3 would feel like a significant change, can you still feel an increase by putting a tuneboy on an R3?

My R3 with TOR/Cat bypass dynoed at 140 peak hp and 150 ft lbs at 2700 rpm. This was with the custom Tuneboy tune for this exhaust. It was then dynoed with the stock tune and as I said, the peak hp was maybe lower by 1-2 but the peak torque was down by 12 ft lb. I rode it home with the stock tune and to tell the truth, I couldn't tell the difference. I suppose if you're into racing, every hp, ft lb and tenth of a second counts, but otherwise, if your bike is running well, my advice is don't screw with it - unless you want to change the cams, the header and exhaust, and intake (single filters).

Tuneboy can be useful. I just took out my Tuneboy custom tune, which was modified to reduce backfiring on decel, reactivated the O2 sensor, and loaded the stock tune for TOR/cat bypass except with the secondaries 100% open. It seemed smoother and just as fast.

BTW, Tuneboy lets you correct the speedometer, which reads about 6-7% high.

Did I understand correctly that you guys can even trade your custom tunes right here by just downloading them? Then just load it into the bike and try it out? If so, that is so cool.

Yup.

Now that I think about it, the "power commander" was what the dealer was trying to get me to do. I didn't understand it at the time since adding a "chip" to OBDII didn't make sense. So it just goes between the computer and injectors in order to alter the injector timing?

It's the fuel, not timing.

Couldn't you just do that by tinkering with the program in tuneboy?

Yes, but you have to find a dyno tuner who has wored with Tuneboy. Otherwise, the learning curve will cost.
 
You certainly have a good point. It does run nice with just the K&N and D&D's. Did I understand that you put the Triumph tune back in and didn't really notice much difference? Maybe I should leave well enough alone, it is alot peppier than the R3T I rode. I can certainly understand why R3T owners are looking for more power, I guess the R3 already has it and I should just shut up and be happy.:rolleyes:
 
The power "reduction" in the stock R3 tunes is achieved by closing the secondary throttle plates to varying extents depending on the tune - less air and less fuel. It's mainly in the first 3 gears. .............. I just looked at the stock R3T tune for aftermarket exhaust (20258) and in gears 1-3, up to 3011 rpm, the secondaries are open no more than 34%. This has to hurt.
Yes, it does hurt,... Throttle response is sluggish and top end seems clipped..

There was some discussion that the cams in the R3T were different than the standard R3 and that this lowered the power. I don't know about this.
No, the cams, gears and cam timing is identical.. The only physical difference is the throttle bodies..

Yes, but you have to find a dyno tuner who has wored with Tuneboy. Otherwise, the learning curve will cost.
This is true.. Most shops are perfecty happy selling a PCIII and tuning it.. It's what they know and what they've been trained on.

Here's what I did, after reading extensivly here and a couple of other places, I installed the factory TORs and the K&N pod filters.. With the Tuneboy I installed the factory TORs tune and opened the secondaries to 100% in all gears/RPMs.. The bike was transformed but I could tell it wasn't right.. Dyno confirmed that the A/F was running way too lean in upper RPMs.. I then loaded the tune described here This smoothed everything out and produces 128hp.. I'll post the graphs on that thread...
 
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Wayne from Tuneboy's tunes will get you in the ballpark, but a dyno tune is the only surefire way. As Doug referred to, I loaded the best tuneboy tune for my set up, hooked up a PCIII with a zero map loaded, got a dyno tune then removed the PCIII, imported the map into tuneboy then loaded that tune in the bike. I started with 148hp and ended with 152hp. Not much gain, but the bike was so much smoother and throttle response was so much better. Even if there was no power gain, just having a smooth map and the piece of mind of having the a/f ratio corrected was worth the cost.
 
Punkindave - you are way lean in the upper RPM ranges. The A/F ratio should be flat and close to the 13 to 14 to 1 mark. You need a good dyno tune with a PCIII, there is more power to be had.
 
Punkindave - you are way lean in the upper RPM ranges. The A/F ratio should be flat and close to the 13 to 14 to 1 mark. You need a good dyno tune with a PCIII, there is more power to be had.
Thanx!! This is the first time I'm at this.. The lower line IS at 14:1 at max RPM, I am told I really want it closer to 13:1 so I'll be dialing in the map with the Tuneboy.. I'll post the runs when completed..
 
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