07 Classic: Bike quit running, lost spark on two cylinders

Before you go deciding to buy any cam whether stock or not. I'd be pulling the cam ladder in case it seized on the cam. Also check the valve clearance first if there is a bunch the valve and piston made contact. Most likely you auto tensioner bottomed out and was not checked to verify . Easy job to do especially since you won't be starting her.
 
Thanks for the thoughts guys, last winter I put a cam chain in this bike an last
last fall I had to take it all apart to replace the alternator stater so I guess I'm
getting burn't out on working on it. I'm thinking warp 9.9 is likely right and the head
should come off as there is no compression in # 2&3 cylinders. Think I may push
it over into the corner and think about something else for awhile.
I bought a 2014 touring thats in Bismark ND (about 1000 mi away) need to go take
possession of as soon we get out of lock down here in Wa state. Maybe it will show
a little more gratitude then this classic has. Thanks for the support, I've found it
to be kinda nice!
 
Thanks for the thoughts guys, last winter I put a cam chain in this bike an last
last fall I had to take it all apart to replace the alternator stater so I guess I'm
getting burn't out on working on it. I'm thinking warp 9.9 is likely right and the head
should come off as there is no compression in # 2&3 cylinders. Think I may push
it over into the corner and think about something else for awhile.
I bought a 2014 touring thats in Bismark ND (about 1000 mi away) need to go take
possession of as soon we get out of lock down here in Wa state. Maybe it will show
a little more gratitude then this classic has. Thanks for the support, I've found it
to be kinda nice!
Send the head to Carpenter for a touch up and new cams, and get 210 hp for your effort. :cool:
 
from what i am seeing u should be able to pull a few ladder bolts from the rear section and remove the
broken piece of the cam then check the area bore to see if it is gaulded then run your compression check to if u have a problem or not.
 
there is no compression in # 2&3 cylinders.

I wouldn't condemn the head yet. A broken cam can fool you into thinking you have bent valves. Remember Paul stated there is no interference between the piston and valves in a stock config.

First off, what cam is broken? Can't tell from the pic.
1. If it is the intake cam and the valves are closed, you could get low compression on that cylinder since no air can be drawn into the cylinders to compress (valve can't open on intake stroke).
2. If the broken cam (exhaust or intake) is depressing any valves, you also will get low to no compression on that cylinder since the valves cannot seal the cylinder on compression.

Do what Warp suggested. Pull the cam ladder and check the cam bores to see if anything seized. Can you move the broken cam right now? All you might have is one broken cam to replace and I bet there are a number of stock ones lying around from guys who have done cam upgrades. Pinwall probably has some also.
 
Ooh nasty. Your exhaust cam broke between the valves on cylinder 1. So you only had one operational exhaust valve, front one on 1.

Time to remove the cam ladder (gradually, as per manual...) and see if the journals are seized. Maybe the oil galley got blocked with something. Or maybe the valves on 2 and/or 3 stopped moving for some reason e.g. timing change+piston/valve contact or guides seized up and put strain on the cam. Or maybe you got unlucky and the cam had a flaw/weakness. Possibly a combination.
Will be very interesting to see what it was... but you need to know, before replacing that cam.
 
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