...i brought the bike back home and the bike started but would not idle and stall straight away. it would rev up as long as i was continuosly reving the motor but would stall when it wasnt reved ...
Can you expand on this just a little?
When you open the throttle and it runs at a higher rpm, does it seem smooth, all three cylinders seem like they're firing?
But just stalls out as you close the throttle?
Or is it 'lumpy' when trying to run at that higher engine speed?
If it is
NOT smooth, can you tell if all three cylinders are firing? (check exhaust temp before it gets too hot)
i.e. is just one cylinder not running clean (or at all!) or are all three equally rough?
I would imagine you're not running it too long, if it's stalling out with closed throttle - but what happens if you let it come up to normal operating temperature?
Same thing or ?????
Run it with TuneECU connected at the minimum rpm it will run without stalling, ideally if you can get it up to temperature;
look at the 'tests' screen and see if there is any major difference on the three MAP sensor dials*; That will give you indication of whether you have any air leaks in that respect.
Then, go back to the Diagnostic screen, expand all the tabs on the left and take a screen shot (ALT + PRNT SCRN & paste in an image editor & save the image)
Post the screen-shot here.
* the way the MAP sensor display works is that there is actually only a single MAP sensor; but is 'quick' enough to see the difference for each cylinder and the display for each cylinder is 'timed' against the engine so each 'gauge' shows the pressure for the appropriate cylinder.
Other things to check:
you mentioned swapping the pump and the fuel pressure regulator; normally that would eliminate any concerns in that regard, but to be 100% ideally you measure the fuel pressure.
I didn't see you mention air filter - this one is a reach, but is far from uncommon - mice like to build nests in airboxes (seriously!) - if you haven't checked in there, take a look and ensure that is OK.
TPS - this one is simple to check on TuneECU: just look at the dial on the diagnostic screen and run the Throttle slowly from closed to open (
ignition only, not running);
Note that the dial indication does not display % of open, it displays % of the max voltage; so it will NOT read 100% at full throttle!
It should track smoothly across its range.
If you want to see how it actually relates to throttle opening, go to the MAPEDIT screen and select one of the 'F' tables; Look to the TPS axis and you will see the position highlighted on the axis; now it should go all the way to 100% on that axis as you open the throttle.
