albertaduke
former airline pilot without the big bucks
anybody with an /09 or earlier should buy this without hesitation .. just in case
Transmission issue
- Thread starter v*twin
- Start date
Checked with Bike bandit and other online sites most have 2-3 weeks lead time for torsional dampener bearing since none of them keep stock in hand.
Does anyone know the equivalent OEM part number & make of the bearings.
I was planning to work on replacing bearing this weekend, contemplating buying the dampener with bearing on Ebay but concerned installing a used bearing with so much work involved in replacement task
Does anyone know the equivalent OEM part number & make of the bearings.
I was planning to work on replacing bearing this weekend, contemplating buying the dampener with bearing on Ebay but concerned installing a used bearing with so much work involved in replacement task
warp9.9
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Actually the vin number break is during the 08 year so a lot of 08 rockets already have the updated parts.
@v*twin I doubt the roadster had many miles on her since it was a 2014. Of course until yours is apart you do not know if anything else is screwed up like the out put shaft. I see if I can locate the bearings and find the manufacturer and part numbers. I am surprised they took the shaft out of the cover. I believe I might have a new silver cover laying around some where but also noticed a new one on ebay. If it were me I would change the cover also since they came in the update kit.
@v*twin I doubt the roadster had many miles on her since it was a 2014. Of course until yours is apart you do not know if anything else is screwed up like the out put shaft. I see if I can locate the bearings and find the manufacturer and part numbers. I am surprised they took the shaft out of the cover. I believe I might have a new silver cover laying around some where but also noticed a new one on ebay. If it were me I would change the cover also since they came in the update kit.
warp9.9
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Ok so the two bearings
Bearing Torsional Damper # T1270805 which is a JESA W2 6305 RS single side seal 25 mm x 62 mm x 17. mm (made in United Kingdom) Seal is non metal
the rear bearing # T3801135 which is a KOYO 6009 RS double sided seals. 45mm x 75 mm x 16mm (made in Japan) Seal is non metal.
The seal # T3600068 made in the UK no name only numbers are 3600068 same as the part number it is a Oil seal 40 MM x 62 mm x 6 mm clockwise rotation.
Hope this helps. remember when you take yours apart the front one is most likely in backwards. Of course with all the metal in the sump you might not be able to tell. So when you install the front bearing the seal goes toward the rear of the bike which is towards the cover. The front bearing gets its oil from the passage that feeds the transmission shaft end bearing hence the seal on one side only. The rear bearing is now grease packed and double sealed where the original was single sealed and oiled by osmosis or shear luck of migration.
Bearing Torsional Damper # T1270805 which is a JESA W2 6305 RS single side seal 25 mm x 62 mm x 17. mm (made in United Kingdom) Seal is non metal
the rear bearing # T3801135 which is a KOYO 6009 RS double sided seals. 45mm x 75 mm x 16mm (made in Japan) Seal is non metal.
The seal # T3600068 made in the UK no name only numbers are 3600068 same as the part number it is a Oil seal 40 MM x 62 mm x 6 mm clockwise rotation.
Hope this helps. remember when you take yours apart the front one is most likely in backwards. Of course with all the metal in the sump you might not be able to tell. So when you install the front bearing the seal goes toward the rear of the bike which is towards the cover. The front bearing gets its oil from the passage that feeds the transmission shaft end bearing hence the seal on one side only. The rear bearing is now grease packed and double sealed where the original was single sealed and oiled by osmosis or shear luck of migration.
I procured a 2014 output shaft/cover from Ebay & also T1270805&T3801135 bearings just in case. I will attempt to replace the output shaft bearing this weekend ,wanted to know if there is a trick/tool to have the bearing pressed into output-shaft cover if I cant find a workshop to have it pressed over weekend.
Once output shaft is replaced I was planning to idle the engine for few minutes and replace oil filter & oil to get rid of metal debris from previous failure. Would you guys recommend to clean the oil pan strainer again after the run as I have only one oil pan gasket right now. Any other input for engine start procedure post the output shaft replacement
Thanks
Manoj
Once output shaft is replaced I was planning to idle the engine for few minutes and replace oil filter & oil to get rid of metal debris from previous failure. Would you guys recommend to clean the oil pan strainer again after the run as I have only one oil pan gasket right now. Any other input for engine start procedure post the output shaft replacement
Thanks
Manoj
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Rocket Scientist
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They are not a real tight fit. I did mine myself. Just make sure not to load the balls. Drive from outer race into cover, from inner race to place on shaft.
Rocket Scientist
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Search for a thread I started called "The Oddessy Begins" it details my bearing replacement.
Rocket Scientist
Grand Exulted Poobah
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Actually search using output shaft bearing.
Mal Padley
Mal-FUNctions..!!
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NOT SURE IF SAME, back 2010 my gears started to jump out of gear, just before long trip back home, anyway, 6 weeks later, i'd broke the gear selector spring in side, i couldn't ride with out holding it in gear, if that helps..?
warp9.9
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My bet is low mileage 2014 They just parted out the engine If I remember right the front right corner of the Head was damaged in the off (Cracked) I seen the 2014 engine Block and crank are still for sale @Steel might want to stock up on parts 
I would stuff her in the cover and install it in the bike ride and smile. Oh and from the pictures I can see the front bearing is installed correctly in the old days the assembly guy would wait until lunch time before installing them buggers. That way he could get in a few yards of warm bear before installing them backwards so they would not get oil
I can not see the rear bearing but if it is sealed both sides( grease packed) it is a newer one also.
If you decide to do a oil flush put the sump pan gasket on the sump pan with some type of permatex gasket sealant. after it cures just lightly grease the surface the meets the engine case. This way you can drop the sump and clean the screens without having to waste the new gasket.
OH and most important do not use any rags inside the engine to wipe her clean that will leave fuzz everywhere you do not want it to end up in the oil screen pick ups. I learned that from @Rocket Scientist
I would stuff her in the cover and install it in the bike ride and smile. Oh and from the pictures I can see the front bearing is installed correctly in the old days the assembly guy would wait until lunch time before installing them buggers. That way he could get in a few yards of warm bear before installing them backwards so they would not get oil
I can not see the rear bearing but if it is sealed both sides( grease packed) it is a newer one also.
If you decide to do a oil flush put the sump pan gasket on the sump pan with some type of permatex gasket sealant. after it cures just lightly grease the surface the meets the engine case. This way you can drop the sump and clean the screens without having to waste the new gasket.
OH and most important do not use any rags inside the engine to wipe her clean that will leave fuzz everywhere you do not want it to end up in the oil screen pick ups. I learned that from @Rocket Scientist
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