Thanks Jake - yes I have noticed if I heal it firmly it goes in quicker but still a very slight double clunk / grind-clunk. Did 250kms today some including some traffic and found that a blip of the throttle when changing 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 while clutch was pulled between gears did seem to help. It's just I just don't see how this could make a difference with the engine not providing any turning motion to the input shaft.. nice and smooth though... scratching my head a bit..
Thanks Warp. Not sure where the lifter arm is but I guess not part of the clutch pack that was replaced recently. The guy that changed the clutch pack did say the old one was showing a lot of evidence of overheating. (Was a Triumph demo bike lent to journalists before I bought it. He recons they had be doing burnouts on it!)
I do slip the clutch a bit when using back brake for slow manoeuvres but that’s about it.
I’ll check my manual for the lifter so I can understand what your suggesting.
Cheers
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
The clutch cable attaches to the lifter arm amd then to the liftershaft. The lifter piece is inside right in the center of the pressure plate. They are part of the clutch but not in you typical clutch packs. Not sure which brand clutch pack you bought. But there is one fiber plate with a slightly larger inside diameter so it can fit over and around the anti-judder spring and seat. I hope he didn't get nothing mixed up. If so I believe the clutch won't fully release. Some fiber kits like what I use (MTC) does not have the one larger I.D. fiber. In them cases you have to leave the anti-judder spring and seat. Anyway I'm thinking if it wasn't doing it before that will be the first place to look. Some of the parts pictured in the manual are for the old style clutch don't let it confuse you. The manual could use some improvement. Anyway when a liftershaft get worn it tends to not ooen the clutch up enough so you'll get some clutch drag still driving the input shaft and then you'll experience the grinding. Below is a good and a slightly warn lifter shaft. You can eat this up sitting aroind revving it at intersections to show off like the Harley guys do up here.
Below is another lifter shaft that is worn but not overheated like the first.
T
Thanks Warp. Would this wear have been noticeable when the guy changed the (Triumph original part BTW) clutch pack do you reckon? Would have thought he’d have mentioned it if so. I’ve been getting the issues for some time before changing the clutch and was hoping it might fix it. To inspect this part, is it accessible by removing the chrome clutch cover on the front of engine?The clutch cable attaches to the lifter arm amd then to the liftershaft. The lifter piece is inside right in the center of the pressure plate. They are part of the clutch but not in you typical clutch packs. Not sure which brand clutch pack you bought. But there is one fiber plate with a slightly larger inside diameter so it can fit over and around the anti-judder spring and seat. I hope he didn't get nothing mixed up. If so I believe the clutch won't fully release. Some fiber kits like what I use (MTC) does not have the one larger I.D. fiber. In them cases you have to leave the anti-judder spring and seat. Anyway I'm thinking if it wasn't doing it before that will be the first place to look. Some of the parts pictured in the manual are for the old style clutch don't let it confuse you. The manual could use some improvement. Anyway when a liftershaft get worn it tends to not ooen the clutch up enough so you'll get some clutch drag still driving the input shaft and then you'll experience the grinding. Below is a good and a slightly warn lifter shaft. You can eat this up sitting aroind revving it at intersections to show off like the Harley guys do up here.
Below is another lifter shaft that is worn but not overheated like the first.
Gregger
Living Legend
To inspect the lifter shaft you will have to remove the clutch cover housing so a fair amount of labor needed. No shortcuts.
The chrome cover is decorative. It sits on a rubber cushion and apparently acts like a shock absorber/or noise dampener, haven't figured that out yet.
The chrome cover is decorative. It sits on a rubber cushion and apparently acts like a shock absorber/or noise dampener, haven't figured that out yet.
Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
Im pretty sure that chrome cover is so when warp explodes baskets the parts wont come through the cover so easy. He has posted pictures of some pretty narly impacts to the cover and the chrome cover definitely helped. Just thinking out loud with a cup.
Is there a way of confirming the clutch isn’t disengaging completely by over thightening the cable then operating the clutch. Would that have the effect of better disengagement and smoother gear changes If that Could work as a diagnostic test may be that could point more firmly at clutch / lifter issue rather than transmission? And there for supporting your view Warp re the lifter.
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