TPS creep.

[Zanx]

Is there a way of stopping TPS creep? Seems that whenever I get it spot on, it slowly drifts off every couple of hundred miles. Seems like a 2 bolt design would have been better.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

It is a 2 bolt design.. yours only has 1..? Would you have a pic?

Being a 2004, if the TPS wasn't replaced then it needs the newer one.

 

[Zanx]

It is a 2 bolt design.. yours only has 1..? Would you have a pic?

Being a 2004, if the TPS wasn't replaced then it needs the newer one.

Sure. TPS is new, got a pic.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

My apologies I was picturing another bike. It only has 1.

Is it mechanically drifting i.e. you can see the bolt is in a different position relative to the slot in the sensor after a few hundred miles, or electronically drifting as in the volts as found when doing the ISCV reset are different than where you left it?

Presume this is a new TPS came in a little bag with a Triumph label with the part number on it, and you're using TuneECU to set it correctly.
That bolt looks different to any i've got with a TPS.

 

[warp9.9]

If its a new TPS. And showing creep signs. I would wonder if your fully close throttle position is changing or floating. All the grime in the throttle linkage and springs can cause that.
Think of it as a machine that cycles evertime you power it up. The ecu goes thru its whirly movements verifying home and making the compensations to base line a closed throttle from.
And do you shim the tps to insure it doesn't bind ?

 

[Journeyman]

If its a new TPS. And showing creep signs. I would wonder if your fully close throttle position is changing or floating. All the grime in the throttle linkage and springs can cause that.
Think of it as a machine that cycles evertime you power it up. The ecu goes thru its whirly movements verifying home and making the compensations to base line a closed throttle from.
And do you shim the tps to insure it doesn't bind ?

Reading through this thread and thinking about how I used to shim the TPS (beer can segment) on my Roadster. Where did I first hear about that ?
..... @warp9.9

 

[Gerald]

If its a new TPS. And showing creep signs. I would wonder if your fully close throttle position is changing or floating. All the grime in the throttle linkage and springs can cause that.
Think of it as a machine that cycles evertime you power it up. The ecu goes thru its whirly movements verifying home and making the compensations to base line a closed throttle from.
And do you shim the tps to insure it doesn't bind ?

Sorry, don't understand the shim reference

 

[Gerald]

Reading through this thread and thinking about how I used to shim the TPS (beer can segment) on my Roadster. Where did I first hear about that ?
..... @warp9.9

Sorry, don't understand the shim reference.

 

[Journeyman]

Sorry, don't understand the shim reference.

You cut a small piece of aluminum from a can (something acceptable, I would hope) that goes between the TPS and the bike to shim it. The idea is that it prevents wear and allows the TPS to turn more freely. If I'm not exactly right about that @warp9.9 should come along shortly to correct me. As I said- I heard it from him first and always did it from then on.

This is "good stock."

 

[Gerald]

You cut a small piece of aluminum from a can (something acceptable, I would hope) that goes between the TPS and the bike to shim it. The idea is that it prevents wear and allows the TPS to turn more freely. If I'm not exactly right about that @warp9.9 should come along shortly to correct me. As I said- I heard it from him first and always did it from then on.

This is "good stock."

Thanks, got bike apart so will try that when reassembling. Do you make shim full circumference of tps? I still don't understand where shim goes. Does it go between tps and mounting surface.