Torqued Oil Drain plugs

[Sidecar Flip]

Thanks Flip for the insight. I'll be sure to use Never-Seize in the future.

There is one drawback to using any proprietary anti-seize on a torqued fastener and that is most torque values are given as a dry condition, that is, if a torque value is specified such as the 25nm value for the sump plugs, Triumph is inferring that the plugs should be torqued to 25nm (dry). Normally, if the use of an anti sieze lubricant is permissible, it will be stated and the torque value will be a "wet" torque.

The other drawback to using never seize on a stud or bolt in a blind hole is that you can literally create a hydraulic lock condition because the bolt is airtight with the anti-seize on the threads and as you tighten it, the bolt can produce enough hydraulic pressure to fracture whatever you are screwing the bolt into.

My rule of thumb is whenever I use an anti-seize to prevent thread galling, I make the value the maximum torque. If it "feels" tight at 20 nm. I stop there. You will feel the plug, bolt or whatever "cinch" up as you tighten it. I tend to use a dial torque wrench on lightly torqued fasteners and a clicker wrench on heavier values beyond 50nm.

I know that sounds a little complicated, but tightening a fastener to a proper torque value takes a little more than tightening to the click in the wrench. It involves a feel much like developing a feel with a micrometer and taking consistent readings.

 

[HeR3tic]

I recently saw a product, at Ace Hardware, for increasing applied torque towards porch decking screws. This product is applied to the head of the phillips or square drive screws; into which the drive is plunged. I'm not clear on the applied physics or any real need.

I can see the use of an anti-seize product can quickly result in over torquing; without employing anymore calibrated tools that an elbow wrench. Which is calibrated roughly in #foot.

 

[mtnman]

If you are adventurous like me, you can always MIG the hole shut and re-machine the hole and thread it.

The drawback to a Heli-Coil is it has to lock in and the tang has to be broken off cleanly or it to will back out. I've seen guys chase a sparkplug hole with a re-threading tap and then start the engine to blow the chips out. Works really well with a Ford.

Heli-Coil has a spark plug repair kit. Different from regular coils, It's a one piece plug that locks into place. They work great and if your careful you don't have to remove the cylinder.