nolton
Living Legend
Thanks. which connection? one, two or three?
1) "with fuseholder-battery conneciton" ?
2) "bare wire ends - fuse panel connection" ?
3) "3 circuit solution connection" ?
Standard Headlight Bulbs
- Thread starter nolton
- Start date
1) "with fuseholder-battery conneciton" ?
2) "bare wire ends - fuse panel connection" ?
3) "3 circuit solution connection" ?
tdragger
Living Legend
Easiest is the first one: fuse holder to the battery.
I have to raise my tank tomorrow anyway so I'll take and post some pictures of the undertank connections.
I have to raise my tank tomorrow anyway so I'll take and post some pictures of the undertank connections.
nolton
Living Legend
That would be great !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
atomsplitter
Living Legend
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2007
- Messages
- 2,773
- Location
- Keller, TX
- Ride
- 17 T-120 Black, 20 Bobber Black, 98 Trophy 1200
Any of the H-4 lights will work. The Eastern Beaver setup is not hard, even I got it done without having to replace my whole wiring harness (minor miracle).
If you don't want the lo-beam cut-off you can buy the lower priced kit (dual headlight). The cut-off kit adds a secondary switch to prevent the low beam comming on until you toggle it on. Your OEM light/start relay will switch the the lo beams off on start with the Eastern Beaver kit installed so functionality remains the same. The lo-beam cut-off just provides a method of keeping the low beams off when you turn the ignition on IF you want to. Handy if you use the Tuneboy too.
If you don't want the lo-beam cut-off you can buy the lower priced kit (dual headlight). The cut-off kit adds a secondary switch to prevent the low beam comming on until you toggle it on. Your OEM light/start relay will switch the the lo beams off on start with the Eastern Beaver kit installed so functionality remains the same. The lo-beam cut-off just provides a method of keeping the low beams off when you turn the ignition on IF you want to. Handy if you use the Tuneboy too.
tdragger
Living Legend
I hope this helps some of you who are about to install the Eastern Beaver H4 Headlight Relay Kit.
This process takes about an hour. Tools needed:
Small flat head screwdriver
Medium Phillips head screwdriver
5mm Hex wrench (or 5mm Hex socket)
Electrical tape
wire stripper
A couple of prerequisites. I assume that you have already removed the bearclaw, unmounted the gauges if you have risers installed, and lifted the tank and have it on the prop stand.
Also, you have purchased the Eastern Beaver H4 Relay kit for the Triumph Rocket III Standard, Classic and Roadster. Link Removed
This is what you should receive:
Shown is the kit with the Fuse Holder. This is for a direct battery connection and it what these directions will talk about. You may opt for the "bare wire ends" version which is used if you are going to run the power through a fuse block such as the EB PC-8. This is what I have installed on my bike.
The red and black wires at the top-right are the battery connections. Red positive, Black negative. (sorry just being thorough)
Below and still on the right side are the two relays. One serves the low beam circuit and the other serves the high beam circuit. Yellow wires are low beam. White wires are high beam. Dim Yellow. Bright White.
On the bottom-left are the switching leads for the low and high beam relays. This will be spliced into the stock wiring shortly.
Just above are the H4 socket pins and their housings. They are delivered unmounted so that you can install them in the headlight bowls (shown later).
This is what you will be replacing. There are actually 2 of them but you will be using one of them for splicing into later.
On the top-right is the headlight connector and also the little parking light european required thingy. In this install, you simply remove them. Another project down the road will be to reinstall them but for now set them aside.
The Triumph stock wiring for the H4 socket is:
Black - ground. Installs on left side of socket when looking at the wiring side.
Blue/Red - low beam. Dim Red. Installs on top hole of socket.
Blue/White - high beam. Bright White. Installs on right side of socket.
continued below...
This process takes about an hour. Tools needed:
Small flat head screwdriver
Medium Phillips head screwdriver
5mm Hex wrench (or 5mm Hex socket)
Electrical tape
wire stripper
A couple of prerequisites. I assume that you have already removed the bearclaw, unmounted the gauges if you have risers installed, and lifted the tank and have it on the prop stand.
Also, you have purchased the Eastern Beaver H4 Relay kit for the Triumph Rocket III Standard, Classic and Roadster. Link Removed
This is what you should receive:
Shown is the kit with the Fuse Holder. This is for a direct battery connection and it what these directions will talk about. You may opt for the "bare wire ends" version which is used if you are going to run the power through a fuse block such as the EB PC-8. This is what I have installed on my bike.
The red and black wires at the top-right are the battery connections. Red positive, Black negative. (sorry just being thorough)
Below and still on the right side are the two relays. One serves the low beam circuit and the other serves the high beam circuit. Yellow wires are low beam. White wires are high beam. Dim Yellow. Bright White.
On the bottom-left are the switching leads for the low and high beam relays. This will be spliced into the stock wiring shortly.
Just above are the H4 socket pins and their housings. They are delivered unmounted so that you can install them in the headlight bowls (shown later).
This is what you will be replacing. There are actually 2 of them but you will be using one of them for splicing into later.
On the top-right is the headlight connector and also the little parking light european required thingy. In this install, you simply remove them. Another project down the road will be to reinstall them but for now set them aside.
The Triumph stock wiring for the H4 socket is:
Black - ground. Installs on left side of socket when looking at the wiring side.
Blue/Red - low beam. Dim Red. Installs on top hole of socket.
Blue/White - high beam. Bright White. Installs on right side of socket.
continued below...
Last edited:
tdragger
Living Legend
Disassembly of stock wiring.
Remove the right side cover from the steering head using the 5mm hex wrench (allen wrench, whatever). Look and trace the thick wiring bundles (lead) that come out of the back of the headlight bowls and follow them around the right side and then under the tank. Find the connector for each lead. Disconnect one of the leads and immediately tape up the wiring harness connector. You will not need this lead anymore. Tuck it out of the way.
Disconnect the other lead and mark the wiring harness connector so that you can easily find it later. Pull both leads out from under the tank and leave them hanging.
Now moving to the front of the bike, disassemble both headlight retaining bands using a medium size Phillips screwdriver. The screw is on the bottom of each bowl. Be careful and don't lose the nut. You will have to completely remove each screw.
One at a time (of course) remove the retaining band making sure you have one hand on the headlight. It may fall forward. As the headlight rotates forward, you will see the connector on the back. Reach in and disconnect the H4 connector and set the headlight aside. There is a positioning band that will also fall out most likely. Set it aside with the headlight.
At this point you can pull the headlight lead through the bowl out the front. The rubber grommet at the back will come out to allow the wiring harness connector to fit through. Repeat for the other headlight.
Now, you have 2 stock headlight leads. One you can put in the drawer for a backup. On the other, you will want to cut the wires 4-6 inches from the wiring harness connector end. The end with the parking light and H4 connector can be put away.
Take the yellow and black wires from the harness connector and tape them up securely. They are not used.
Trim back the blue/red and blue/white wires approximately 1/4" to expose the wires. Slide a shrink fit tube onto each wire. Using the blue Posi-Locks, splice the blue/red to the Yellow wire (Dim Red, Dim Yellow). Next, splice the blue/white to the White wire (Bright White). After making sure that the connections are strong, slide the shrink wrap over the Posi-Locks and shrink to fit. You may want to further tape up the splicing location. This is what it can look like:
This picture shows the wiring harness connectors about to be reconnected.
Next you should push the unmounted H4 pins through each headlight bowl and route the wires around the right side of the steering head (same location as the stock leads). Inside the bowl, you should slide the rubber grommet from the stock leads onto the new wires and reset the grommet in its place as shown below:
In each bowl you can go ahead and seat the pins into the H4 connector as shown below:
VERY IMPORTANT!! The wiring must be in the orientation shown above. With the Yellow wire on the bottom as shown in the picture, the White wire is to the left and the Black wire is to the right. Close the H4 connector to secure the pins. If you need to remove a pin, use a small flat screw driver and GENTLY push the pin out from the front. Do not use a lot of pressure or you may end up with a nasty hole in your hand!!
Reinstall the headlights. Note, the positioning rings have 2 tabs on the outside of each. The tabs fit into the topmost slots in the headlight bowl. The headlight will then fit in only one correct position in the rings. If you can't get the headlight to line up properly, the ring is most likely inside-out. Reinstall the retaining rings and secure with the screws.
Moving back to the right side of the bike, you should now be able to stuff the relays up under the frame into some space behind the steering head. The relays are now sold nicely waterproofed so they should not be any worry. Route the wiring harness lead back under the frame and reconnect to the stock wiring harness plug that you marked earlier.
Lastly, run the red and black power leads along the inside of the upper frame tube and secure to the other wiring with tie-wraps. Route the wires down the frame tube at the back of the gas tank and out into the area over the airbox and battery. You can follow the right side frame piece and tie-wrap here for a tidy install. Connect the red lead to the positive battery post and the black lead to the negative battery post. And finally, insert the supplied fuse (20 amp I believe) into the fuse holder and you're done.
Take cover (just kidding) and turn the ignition key on. If all was done well you should have dazzling bright lights and a well protected ignition switch.
One final note, make sure that you thank your trusty helper. A small sample of treats will do. They are not hard to please.
Remove the right side cover from the steering head using the 5mm hex wrench (allen wrench, whatever). Look and trace the thick wiring bundles (lead) that come out of the back of the headlight bowls and follow them around the right side and then under the tank. Find the connector for each lead. Disconnect one of the leads and immediately tape up the wiring harness connector. You will not need this lead anymore. Tuck it out of the way.
Disconnect the other lead and mark the wiring harness connector so that you can easily find it later. Pull both leads out from under the tank and leave them hanging.
Now moving to the front of the bike, disassemble both headlight retaining bands using a medium size Phillips screwdriver. The screw is on the bottom of each bowl. Be careful and don't lose the nut. You will have to completely remove each screw.
One at a time (of course) remove the retaining band making sure you have one hand on the headlight. It may fall forward. As the headlight rotates forward, you will see the connector on the back. Reach in and disconnect the H4 connector and set the headlight aside. There is a positioning band that will also fall out most likely. Set it aside with the headlight.
At this point you can pull the headlight lead through the bowl out the front. The rubber grommet at the back will come out to allow the wiring harness connector to fit through. Repeat for the other headlight.
Now, you have 2 stock headlight leads. One you can put in the drawer for a backup. On the other, you will want to cut the wires 4-6 inches from the wiring harness connector end. The end with the parking light and H4 connector can be put away.
Take the yellow and black wires from the harness connector and tape them up securely. They are not used.
Trim back the blue/red and blue/white wires approximately 1/4" to expose the wires. Slide a shrink fit tube onto each wire. Using the blue Posi-Locks, splice the blue/red to the Yellow wire (Dim Red, Dim Yellow). Next, splice the blue/white to the White wire (Bright White). After making sure that the connections are strong, slide the shrink wrap over the Posi-Locks and shrink to fit. You may want to further tape up the splicing location. This is what it can look like:
This picture shows the wiring harness connectors about to be reconnected.
Next you should push the unmounted H4 pins through each headlight bowl and route the wires around the right side of the steering head (same location as the stock leads). Inside the bowl, you should slide the rubber grommet from the stock leads onto the new wires and reset the grommet in its place as shown below:
In each bowl you can go ahead and seat the pins into the H4 connector as shown below:
VERY IMPORTANT!! The wiring must be in the orientation shown above. With the Yellow wire on the bottom as shown in the picture, the White wire is to the left and the Black wire is to the right. Close the H4 connector to secure the pins. If you need to remove a pin, use a small flat screw driver and GENTLY push the pin out from the front. Do not use a lot of pressure or you may end up with a nasty hole in your hand!!
Reinstall the headlights. Note, the positioning rings have 2 tabs on the outside of each. The tabs fit into the topmost slots in the headlight bowl. The headlight will then fit in only one correct position in the rings. If you can't get the headlight to line up properly, the ring is most likely inside-out. Reinstall the retaining rings and secure with the screws.
Moving back to the right side of the bike, you should now be able to stuff the relays up under the frame into some space behind the steering head. The relays are now sold nicely waterproofed so they should not be any worry. Route the wiring harness lead back under the frame and reconnect to the stock wiring harness plug that you marked earlier.
Lastly, run the red and black power leads along the inside of the upper frame tube and secure to the other wiring with tie-wraps. Route the wires down the frame tube at the back of the gas tank and out into the area over the airbox and battery. You can follow the right side frame piece and tie-wrap here for a tidy install. Connect the red lead to the positive battery post and the black lead to the negative battery post. And finally, insert the supplied fuse (20 amp I believe) into the fuse holder and you're done.
Take cover (just kidding) and turn the ignition key on. If all was done well you should have dazzling bright lights and a well protected ignition switch.
One final note, make sure that you thank your trusty helper. A small sample of treats will do. They are not hard to please.
Last edited:
Gothlander
321 GONE
This should have sticky status on it's own thread, good stuff.
nolton
Living Legend
One final note, make sure that you thank your trusty helper. A small sample of treats will do. They are not hard to please.
[/QUOTE]
Old timers say having a black cat is lucky. I dont care for cats.
[/QUOTE]
Old timers say having a black cat is lucky. I dont care for cats.
nolton
Living Legend
Does it matter if you leave the " little parking light european required thingy" connected?
I kind of like having it. I've used it a couple of times in low lighted store parking.
I kind of like having it. I've used it a couple of times in low lighted store parking.
fat frank
Supercharged
Are the yellow and black wires you're not using the ones for the possition lamps? If so, can I go ahead and just wire them into it? Keep in mind you're talking to a machinist here.lol
Great write up.
Great write up.
Similar threads
