Something Failed, let’s find it! Transmission Analysis.



What way did you fix the blades back again onto the shafts ,preventing dropping the tiny bolts out of the blades?
 
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The small screws get torqued in and then flared on the backside to prevent backing out. Maxxbore actually does all the assembly for you. He gets them very close to balanced before sending them out.
 
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Claviger said:
The small screws get tprqued in and then flared on the backside to prevent backing out. Maxxbore actually does all the assembly for you. He gets them very close to balanced before sending them out.
Click to expand...

Ok,Tnx !
 
Claviger said:
My top crank mark is dead on, bottom not so much, interesting to know. TDC set using a dial indicator down the plug hole, with 0.0001 of an inch.
Click to expand...

I am also just dialing in the cams.(not stock ones) As you did notice , the stock Triumph crank/bottom marking is not accurate enough ?
Second, now you let us know stock marking is not accurate, I have to look for an accurate (.) TDC tool. Which brand TDC tool would you advice me for the Rlll ?
 
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Regarding the setting of lobe centers and considering possible assembly tolerance compounding,
I would never trust any OEM markings.
A dial indicator for use to find TDC and start of valve lift used with a good quality degree wheel is best IMHO.
 
As bull says. Use a dial indicator down the spark plug hole to locate precise TDC. Once found, adjust the degree wheel to be zero at actual TDC.

Then dial in cams.

Your crank marks may be accurate, or may not, which is really the problem.
 
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Claviger said:
As bull says. Use a dial indicator down the spark plug hole to locate precise TDC. Once found, adjust the degree wheel to be zero at actual TDC.

Then dial in cams.

Your crank marks may be accurate, or may not, which is really the problem.
Click to expand...

Yep, I am aware of that but as there are a lot of dial indicators I need a reliable one and which one fits the Rlll plughole/lenght.
 
fastfun said:
Yep, I am aware of that but as there are a lot of dial indicators I need a reliable one and which one fits the Rlll plughole/lenght.
Click to expand...
There are none that will work without an extension. Ebay has extension kits available, for about $15.

I wouldnt spend a lot on an indicator your gonna use every once in a while. Im a machinist and a $15 dollar travel dial works great for what you are doing When precision is needed (like checking for runout on a shaft for example), then spend on a good indicator. Your just making sure the piston is at its highest point of travel .
 
Well said, I bought a fairly cheap (as far as dial indicators go) on for like $60 + extensions and a tip set + magnetic base.
 
Thought I would post a follow up after having the bike on the road for a while.

- Trans is still absolute butter smooth.
- I do still use the quickshifter, but only over 5k RPM now and far less frequently, instead of pretty much constantly.
- I still stand by my diagnosis of 5 to 4 downshifts being the primary culprit, not the GP pattern, and not the QS. If it were GP pattern the upshift side of the items would have shown excessive wear (they didn't) and if it were the QS the dogs would've been beaten and rounded (they weren't).
- Boring TBs... don't, just don't. If you absolutely must, PM me for reasons why not and how to make it work, but otherwise... just don't.
 
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