Single K&N vs 3 K&N filters

How much flow you need is based on two things:
1.) Power developed.
2.) How often cleaning will be required.

Until you have an aftermarket full exhaust system (including a well designed header), you simply do not need a lot of intake filter area. K&N RU-2780 filters (three) are not particularly high flowing, and the intake length is shorter than the stock plenum runners. This means that the stock plenum tends to make better torque at low rpm (under 4000 rpm).

Once you eliminate the exhaust header as the restriction, then you need a good bit more intake flow (and length ;) ).
With the R3 engine specs, the top of the stock rubber velocity stacks in the stock plenum give an intake length (not including intake port) of 6.5 inches. Revving to 6000-6500 rpm, the engine really wants an intake length that is a good bit longer. Anything less will reduce torque output under peak torque rpm.

When combined with a well designed exhaust system, a well-matched intake system can deliver output (HP and TQ) gains that are truly impressive compared to stock.

Below are a couple of photos from some early development. The first uses the stock velocity stacks and a large filter. The second is for the same filter, but better shaped and longer velocity stacks. The latest generation is even more impressive, but requires a custom replacement for the Bearclaw that includes a scoop.
Any word on when the intake plate and scoop will be available?
 
Well I am not on the forums much but here is my $.02. Just installed the tripe 2780's but couldn't get the bear claw to fit back on my 12 roadster. I have the TORS and the tuneecu tune for triples and TORS with full open secondaries and fifth gear map in all gears. I was running this tune with the k&n underseat filter and was happy but now the front tire dances around in third under full throttle. Huge increase in throttle response and **** is this thing mean.
Now for my questions for the experts:

1.how do I get the bear law back on without having to cut it.

2.the maf map sensor is still in the under seat box (does it stay there?)

3.I have a crankcase filter that came with the kit I have no clue where to use.

4.and how do you remove the under seat box and still keep all the stuff that's bolted to it or do you leave it in and use for storage?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 
Well I am not on the forums much but here is my $.02. Just installed the tripe 2780's but couldn't get the bear claw to fit back on my 12 roadster. I have the TORS and the tuneecu tune for triples and TORS with full open secondaries and fifth gear map in all gears. I was running this tune with the k&n underseat filter and was happy but now the front tire dances around in third under full throttle. Huge increase in throttle response and **** is this thing mean.
Now for my questions for the experts:

1.how do I get the bear law back on without having to cut it.

2.the maf map sensor is still in the under seat box (does it stay there?)

3.I have a crankcase filter that came with the kit I have no clue where to use.

4.and how do you remove the under seat box and still keep all the stuff that's bolted to it or do you leave it in and use for storage?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
number one .. it will fit I had that set up before going to ramair . you have to do a bit of side way motion and with one hand push in the rear filter and lots of cursing you can push down the claw it is only the rear filter that stick out
number two up to you
number three right side behind the black plastic triangular cover in front of side cover you will see the crankcase vent , up to you to change .it is easy with slim fingers and a real pain with sausage like fingers
number four use it for storage I keep a coiled heavy duty booster cable ,some tools ,and rags in there
 
Ok, just seemed like the one filter had a bunch of pressure from the bear claw. After looking at all the stuff that would need to be relocated the box under the seat is staying. Thanks
 
I had the crank case and air temp filter backwards but they are on the right way now. Even with the filter turned the back filter still hit against the bearclaw. Not too much pressure on it and is assume after a while the filter will mould to that shape. Now tofu d a cat delete for the roadster and a good dyno tech who uses tunecu.

Thanks for the help!
 
put one or two washers behind the the rear bearclaw mount at back of tank it will clause the bearclaw to stick out a little but you will hardly notice it
the air temp sensor is best ziptied to fuel rail between filters 1 and 2
all the other plumbing for original air system bar the box should be removed then using the clamp that held the hose on to the air box take a piece of mtn bike inner tube or durable rubber/plastic and cover the hole, you now have a neat glove box
make sure even thou it is a pain to do, that you put the crankcase filter/breather on the engine as allowing it to breathe thru the airbox will result in oil contents of fore mentioned glove box
hope that helps
 
Found an easy way to get the crank case hose off if (like my case) you can't get anything on the clamp. Take an 18 or 19 millimeter wrench, put the open end under the clamp and and wiggle each side of the wrench up and down and push off the hose. Worked like a charm in no time. Same goes for the other end of the hose since there isn't much room to get bigger hands in there.

At first I didnt see how the washers would help but then I realized you said the mount itself. Good thinking. I might need a few since it has to come out about an inch to not be touching the filter. Thanks again.

Oh ya, just took the girlfriend for a ride and almost lost her off the back so yes there is a big difference in power with the right tune and just the tors and triple k&n's. First gear is pretty much useless unless you like new tires every 100 miles...

Does anyone make a cat delete for the roadster? I can't find one anywhere except a custom one for around $800 and that's ridiculous.
 
Here is the look of the brether mounted on the back of the engine.

before filter
IMG_2919.jpg

after filter

IMG_2920.jpg


I use a differnt filter and added a 90 degree so it is easier for me to install and pull off and for cleaning but the above filter is what most run.

P3210046.JPG


Hope this helps
 
Found an easy way to get the crank case hose off if (like my case) you can't get anything on the clamp. Take an 18 or 19 millimeter wrench, put the open end under the clamp and and wiggle each side of the wrench up and down and push off the hose. Worked like a charm in no time. Same goes for the other end of the hose since there isn't much room to get bigger hands in there.

At first I didnt see how the washers would help but then I realized you said the mount itself. Good thinking. I might need a few since it has to come out about an inch to not be touching the filter. Thanks again.

Oh ya, just took the girlfriend for a ride and almost lost her off the back so yes there is a big difference in power with the right tune and just the tors and triple k&n's. First gear is pretty much useless unless you like new tires every 100 miles...

Does anyone make a cat delete for the roadster? I can't find one anywhere except a custom one for around $800 and that's ridiculous.

on a '12 r3r the tors are the cat delete... the cat is in the stock muffler... the box that attaches to the header is just a resonator... the guy i just bought my tors from for my '12 r3r cut open the box and it's empty...
 
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