Sell me on an exhaust

[1olbull]

 

[Tazithman]

Myself I would eliminate the air ducting if for nothing else so you can figure out why the engine light is coming on. After I figured that out then I'd be looking at do I want other mods. You are the first person I've ever heard has a engine light and no code. This is why I would figure that out first before throwing money at more then just the air filters. Something is loose that sends the code and is corrected before it's a permanent code. At its age it could just be a sparatic vacuum leak, loose low tension leads on a coil. I'd run that down after you do the filter mod.
Just my 2.5 cents worth.

Tell us more about it. You say its a 07 Classic is it a tourer model or just the Classic? Is the motor silver or black? Pictures are a lot of help if you're not sure. From your avatar I think she is a Classic Tourer correct me if I'm wrong. And get used to me being wrong

Myself I would eliminate the air ducting if for nothing else so you can figure out why the engine light is coming on. After I figured that out then I'd be looking at do I want other mods. You are the first person I've ever heard has a engine light and no code. This is why I would figure that out first before throwing money at more then just the air filters. Something is loose that sends the code and is corrected before it's a permanent code. At its age it could just be a sparatic vacuum leak, loose low tension leads on a coil. I'd run that down after you do the filter mod.
Just my 2.5 cents worth.

Tell us more about it. You say its a 07 Classic is it a tourer model or just the Classic? Is the motor silver or black? Pictures are a lot of help if you're not sure. From your avatar I think she is a Classic Tourer correct me if I'm wrong. And get used to me being wrong

BEWARE... LONG POST AHEAD....
07 Classic Touring purchased with 7k miles last year and currently 15k on the meter. From my understanding a tourer of this year is just a normal classic with some accessories like bags, floorboards, and the such added on.

I have messed with the electrical a tad through the following: Installed LED headlights because the stock illumination was pretty rough. Had these lights on for months before the check engine light issue so I am doubtful it's related.
Installed tender connector to battery for easy plugins. Also added underglows, 100watt amp and 2 speakers to battery. To verify I didn't have a wire rubbing or voltage leeching from these to the main harness I disconnected them from battery but the light stuck around.

Only other mechanical type mod was a k&n under seat filter. I have updated tune but that wasn't till after the light issue started.

From what I remember the light first came on last fall when I accidentally killed it (thought it was in neutral and it wasn't). After the normal shake and "clunk" the light came on. After that it was very sporatic, usually only comming on during humid or cool evenings. Living where I do in the midwest USA, I would leave the house and it would be 80F 30% humidity. Returning home after work it might be 45F and 80% humidity so I started think the ecu was just freaking out because of the sudden environment changes.

So far I have traced wires for rubs, checked connectors, replaced plugs for good measure, reaseated coil pickups (they seemed loose so I tightened), and opened the housing to check for corrosion. I started to do the iscv process but read about it after I got the plenum back together. I'm going to wait until my K&Ns get here to do it because I have to take the air assembly off again anyway. I plan on fogging for vacuum leaks at this time as well. There is very slight surging on idle, like 20 RPM but I'm not sure if that's normal for this bike.

Emailed Paul from viking exhaust and told him to shut up and take my money, will be ordering his chrome complete 3-1 kit after finishing this post.

 

[Dr.D]

I use Paul’s three into one full system on my bike and like it but it does put off some heat.

 

[sleeves]

BEWARE... LONG POST AHEAD....
07 Classic Touring purchased with 7k miles last year and currently 15k on the meter. From my understanding a tourer of this year is just a normal classic with some accessories like bags, floorboards, and the such added on.

I have messed with the electrical a tad through the following: Installed LED headlights because the stock illumination was pretty rough. Had these lights on for months before the check engine light issue so I am doubtful it's related.
Installed tender connector to battery for easy plugins. Also added underglows, 100watt amp and 2 speakers to battery. To verify I didn't have a wire rubbing or voltage leeching from these to the main harness I disconnected them from battery but the light stuck around.

Only other mechanical type mod was a k&n under seat filter. I have updated tune but that wasn't till after the light issue started.

From what I remember the light first came on last fall when I accidentally killed it (thought it was in neutral and it wasn't). After the normal shake and "clunk" the light came on. After that it was very sporatic, usually only comming on during humid or cool evenings. Living where I do in the midwest USA, I would leave the house and it would be 80F 30% humidity. Returning home after work it might be 45F and 80% humidity so I started think the ecu was just freaking out because of the sudden environment changes.

So far I have traced wires for rubs, checked connectors, replaced plugs for good measure, reaseated coil pickups (they seemed loose so I tightened), and opened the housing to check for corrosion. I started to do the iscv process but read about it after I got the plenum back together. I'm going to wait until my K&Ns get here to do it because I have to take the air assembly off again anyway. I plan on fogging for vacuum leaks at this time as well. There is very slight surging on idle, like 20 RPM but I'm not sure if that's normal for this bike.

Emailed Paul from viking exhaust and told him to shut up and take my money, will be ordering his chrome complete 3-1 kit after finishing this post.

OK your engine warning light. To really figure out what this is you really need to hook it up to Tune ECU so you can see which fault it is. It could be that the secondary TPS is out of whack and really isn't a problem worth worrying about. Once you know what the fault is its much easier to fix it.

Also forgot on my last post the first thing (very first thing) is update your existing map on the ECU so the secondary throttle control is 100% open at all times and the advance curve are the same for all gears this is one of the biggest performance changes for free you can do. (Check on your current map in case this has already been done).

 

[1olbull]

I use Paul’s three into one full system on my bike and like it but it does put off some heat.

I reckon we can't make more juice without more heat . . .
I know my CES makes a lot more heat, but I have gotten used to it and where NOT to place my leg!

 

[Tal]

yes...i had to get my leg used to the jardines touching my calf...you soon learn to find your spot where it dosnt burn holes in things....like rain leggings!!...

 

[warp9.9]

BEWARE... LONG POST AHEAD....
07 Classic Touring purchased with 7k miles last year and currently 15k on the meter. From my understanding a tourer of this year is just a normal classic with some accessories like bags, floorboards, and the such added on.

I have messed with the electrical a tad through the following: Installed LED headlights because the stock illumination was pretty rough. Had these lights on for months before the check engine light issue so I am doubtful it's related.
Installed tender connector to battery for easy plugins. Also added underglows, 100watt amp and 2 speakers to battery. To verify I didn't have a wire rubbing or voltage leeching from these to the main harness I disconnected them from battery but the light stuck around.

Only other mechanical type mod was a k&n under seat filter. I have updated tune but that wasn't till after the light issue started.

From what I remember the light first came on last fall when I accidentally killed it (thought it was in neutral and it wasn't). After the normal shake and "clunk" the light came on. After that it was very sporatic, usually only comming on during humid or cool evenings. Living where I do in the midwest USA, I would leave the house and it would be 80F 30% humidity. Returning home after work it might be 45F and 80% humidity so I started think the ecu was just freaking out because of the sudden environment changes.

So far I have traced wires for rubs, checked connectors, replaced plugs for good measure, reaseated coil pickups (they seemed loose so I tightened), and opened the housing to check for corrosion. I started to do the iscv process but read about it after I got the plenum back together. I'm going to wait until my K&Ns get here to do it because I have to take the air assembly off again anyway. I plan on fogging for vacuum leaks at this time as well. There is very slight surging on idle, like 20 RPM but I'm not sure if that's normal for this bike.

Emailed Paul from viking exhaust and told him to shut up and take my money, will be ordering his chrome complete 3-1 kit after finishing this post.

Ok, can't really argue with you methods there. But I think at its age I would just change all the vacuum lines and the vacuum plug caps that block off the extra unused throttle body ports. If yours doesn't have the California emissions stuff your only talking 4 plug caps. The number 3 throttle body has two one kind of under the Primary TPS. Three small lines. One from each that run to a cheap plastic 4 way connector and one large one from the connector to the map sensor. These do not have to be TRIUMPH hoses. The local auto parts store is fine. My reason is they are old and if one is creating a slight engine light flash its probably a dry rot crack that happens once in a while. So you might not catch it with the smoke detection method. That and well you've seen the crap mess under the tank. I will also say just in case there are a lot of feller that mix up the primary TPS and the secondary TPS primary is on number 3 throttle body kind of by your left knee. It is in line with the primary throttle plates and shaft. Secondary TPS is on number 1 throttle body it is in line with the secondary throttle plates. Just mentioning it because people mix them up and pull the secondary out which is installed different from the primary. Anyway also I would like to ask while you had the tune ecu hooked up did you run any of the test? I know your changing to a triple filter or ram air set up. But have you checked the vacuum at each throttle body via tune ecu while its idling?
Time for my second cup of coffee I'll let this soak in and give you time to answer and ask any questions that might have popped up in your mind.

 

[warp9.9]

Also you mention reseating the high tension leads on the coils. Thats good you should also check the low tension leads. The spade connectors on them might be loose its happened to a lot of us. The front cylinder is the worse ti get at. When your changing yor filter set up you'll see. Anyway there is a ate on tp of the coil its a mounting plate that wire connectors are clipped on. Them wire lay in there with or without the plate. I tossed my plate so I can get at the coil any time I need to. Anyway below is a shot of the low tension leads I'm referring to.

 

[Gerald]

Also you mention reseating the high tension leads on the coils. Thats good you should also check the low tension leads. The spade connectors on them might be loose its happened to a lot of us. The front cylinder is the worse ti get at. When your changing yor filter set up you'll see. Anyway there is a ate on tp of the coil its a mounting plate that wire connectors are clipped on. Them wire lay in there with or without the plate. I tossed my plate so I can get at the coil any time I need to. Anyway below is a shot of the low tension leads I'm referring to.

Like how you moved front coil, easier to get to.

 

[Dr.D]

I reckon we can't make more juice without more heat . . .
I know my CES makes a lot more heat, but I have gotten used to it and where NOT to place my leg!

yes...i had to get my leg used to the jardines touching my calf...you soon learn to find your spot where it dosnt burn holes in things....like rain leggings!!...

I wanted to quote you both just recognizing what you said and echo is even stronger. If I stop at the traffic light for much if any time and keep my right leg near the pipe it will scorch me. Even while riding slow in warm temperatures I have learned to keep my leg out a bit. After the mods I have done I think the increase felt heat on the right side is the most negative.

It is not a deal breaker but a guy considering these improvements should be aware and accept the total price of big power.