Replacing Rear Brake Switch-It is defeating me

[Navigator]

Thanks for posting this John. I was wondering about the flexible line, that is, if you had to also detach that. It occurred to me that the 22mm and 7/8in are about the same so I just went out to the shop and the 7/8" socket fits snugly over the switch. The problem remains being able to get enough umph onto the ratchet handle to break it loose. I just tried from the left side (the bike is on a table lift) and couldn't get direct pressure since I am reaching under the exhaust and up. I tried from the right by reaching in and around the exhaust/crossover pipe and the socket popped off. Before I go the route of draining the master cylinder/removing the banjo bolt and then draining it and then draining the forward line, I'm going to have a friend stop by this afternoon and see if he can old down that socket from the left side while I grab the ratchet handle from the right. The other option is to buy a deep socket and have my machinist friend cut it off to the correct length which will give me a better purchase on the switch. I'm just trying avoid draining the brake fluid if I can.

If the cut off 7/8" deep socket works, I'll have a "special tool" for when this NEVER happens again.

 

[TriumPhil]

Congratulations, Mike!!!

Not so much for having the perserverance to successfully make your fixullhairout:, but for having the technological prowess necessary to post those pics!:lol:

 

[Navigator]

I just followed Scott's instructions Phil. Photobucket seems to be one of those "it ain't broke but we'll fix it anyway" sites.

The switch is installed and like many processes such as this, it looked harder than it was. I was able to remove and replace the switch without removing the lower banjo bolt and draining the brake line. I could not have done this without a table lift. Even with the lift I was still on the floor looking up under the bike from the left side.

The tools required are a T-27 torques to remove the heat shield. It is located on the right side of the bike, a 7/8" or 22mm socket, as deep a standard as one has. My 22mm was lest than 3/4" deep but my 7/8" was almost an inch deep. I also had a 5 inch ratchet/1/4" drive with 3/8" adapter. A good short and not too "thick" 3/8" would probably do. The problem is both vertical and horizontal clearance. With the 7/8" socket I was able to get a good purchase on the switch and by pushing firmly from the left side of the bike, broke it loose. The good thing is that once it breaks loose it can be removed with the fingers. The difficult part is that everything has to be done by feel. It was nearly impossible to see what I was doing with my arm stuck in and under the bike.

Recommendation. Get two new crush washers one for under the switch and the other that goes under the top banjo fitting, that is, the one line that goes from the fitting to the rear brake caliper. Since I couldn't put a torque wrench on it I just used the old timer method of torque; feel. My old vintage Triumph buddies used to have three settings for if you can't get a torque wrench on a nut or bolt, "kinda tight, real tight and **** tight". I turned it down until it was good and snug and gave it just a little more.

I didn't lose any brake fluid and the brake feels firm. I'm going to bleed it just for good measure though and check the fitting for any seepage after the first ride. If there is, I'll get new crush washers and start all over. It won't take long though if I have to do it again since I now know what tools use and the process for getting on top of that darn illusive little switch.

 

[TriumPhil]

This thread will make a good sticky for those who may want to tackle this fix for themselves!

Nice work, Mike & Co..