Mine were removed by the dealer. Back then, I did not even bother to figure out how he did it.
A buddy of mine, apparently a capable wrench, now would like to do it all by himself. Any "how to" step-by-step advice (or ref to an OLD post) I could share with him?.
Expose the throttle bodies by removing filters or plastic plenum if still used.
Open secondaries fully by pushing on them with finger... they will rotate.
COMPLETELY SEAL CLOSED MAIN THROTTLE PLATES UNDER SECONDARY PLATES WITH MASKING TAPE!!! This will save you from major disaster of tiny screw falling into intake runner!
Using small screwdriver, remove the 2 tiny screws from each secondary throttle plate, one plate at a time. I found it helped to have needle nose pliers in left hand to "grab" parts as they came loose (screws and plates).
After removing all 3 secondary plates... remove masking tape (obviously).
Closing bottom TB plates & taping is good idea ,
an added precaution , to make job easier if drop one
of the 6 little screw , or possible little brass shaving
that may come loose from braded screws.
push a kleenex in eachTB hole .
Shaving would be hard to get @ even with needle nose pliers.
Tissue great for sweating job too !
That was going to be my question and I also wonder what restrictions. I have heard about it but don't know about them. I need to talk to you guys more.
The real reason to completely remove the secondaries, is that even with them set to 100% open in all fields via TuneBoy, they remain partially closed at idle... and open WAAAY too slowly for this hot rod cowboy on WOT. Don't believe me? Pull off your filters and watch for yourselves.
'Tis because of the way the secondaries use MAP to control idle. Or is it the other way round?
Would it not be more advantageous to not only remove the plates but also the shaft and linkage? If I was going that route I'd machine aluminum plugs for the shaft holes and remove the whole assembly. Cleaner, straighter shot without any turbulence.