Removal of front engine bolt

[TheKid]

Your right. Just did it. It may drop, may not. Be ready to put it in as quick as you can. Use some type of lube (never seize)

 

[laraza]

I've just fitted front bars to my 09 Classic......it was a total b**ch to get out!

The front engine bolt was totally rusted in, can only assume it was never greased when it went in, and had to drive it out.

rub down with emery and a light layer of grease and it went in much easier than it came out

 

[mr hunt]

...and here we have a silver lining around the dark cloud that is transmission failure....if you pull the engine once a year like i do the front engine mount bolt can be removed with the touch of a single finger...

 

[cootertwo]

Always a bright side!

 

[joesoap]

Trolly jack under motor with a piece of plywood on top and lift to just support the weight of motor ...Undo the engine bolt and remove the nut then tap the engine bolt into the frame a 1/4",now put the new longer bolt through 1 engine bar and use the new bolt to drift the old one out,then put engine bar on the other end that has now fully been pushed through leaving your old bolt on the floor. No risk of a dropped motor and struggling to push new bolt into a hole where the motor is miss-aligned with the frame

 

[Lucifer Orange]

Did it this morning and got some pics.....then went on the lash! Will post how I did it, and it worked ok for me, tomorrow morning. Thank you for all the advice it was very helpful

 

[rjsjota]

...and here we have a silver lining around the dark cloud that is transmission failure....if you pull the engine once a year like i do the front engine mount bolt can be removed with the touch of a single finger...

With support under the engine, my front engine bolt also slides in & out with 1 finger pressure. It helps to coat it with waterproof grease. I have removed it several times to fit dresser bars, remove dresser bars, fit modified dresser bars...no time for corrosion to get a hold on it, I imagine.

 

[mr hunt]

Ditto. ..cleaned and re-greased at every removal

 

[Lucifer Orange]

Hi All,
After reading all your helpful hints and some lateral thinking I was successful in my mission. Here is what worked for me:

1) put bike in 1st gear and chock rear wheel.
2) place a block of wood under the side stand to reduce the lean on the bike but not so much as to make it unstable.
3) isolate the front forks, I used old seat belts (see Pic)
4) gently raise engine using the scissor jack until the weight starts to come off the front wheel. you'll notice this as the wheel will start to move towards the left hand side of the bike.
5) CAREFULLY undo and remove the nut from the bolt.
6) tap the bolt using a hammer and drift to release bolt
7) very slightly adjust the scissor jack until you hit the sweet spot where the weight of the engine is taken and the bolt should pull out.
8) replace with the threaded stud having covered the stud in copper crest.
9) if you are fitting the Fehling crash bars the spacer goes on the right hand side.
10) ensure equidistance on the visible thread and gently lower the engine to put a bit of load on the stud.
11) fit mounting brackets and then rest of mountings.
12) Gently tighten all nuts and bolts a bit at a time to spread the load and then torque both nylock nuts up to 80 Nm.

Sorry the pics are not in order but hopefully you will get the idea. If you need any more detail please message me and I will happily elaborate for you.

Happy Riding

 

[scot in exile]

Nice write up, will help others when the time comes