Removal of front engine bolt

[Lucifer Orange]

Hi everyone,

Just after a bit of advice really, I am part way through fitting a set of after market crash bars (prior to fitting of a belly pan) and need to remove the front engine mounting bolt in order to locate the right hand side upper bracket. The fitting instructions are limited and written in German however I have figured out that the bolt does need removing.

I have looked in the manual and this is pretty thin on the ground on specific detail. Assumption is the mother of all **** ups so my intention is to secure and chock the bike, take the weight of the engine with a scissor jack, undo the nut and gently tap out the bolt. Fit the bracket and then replace the bolt, replace the nut and torque up to 80Nm and Robert is your father's brother.

Can anyone see any potential problems doing it this way? I really don't want to end up with bike and engine laying all over the place in loads of bits because I have missed something, be it obvious or not.

Cheers

John

 

[Fingers]

You should be fine using the scissor jack,but if you have a small piece of plywood in between it would spread the load a it more.

 

[Triple Trouble]

It is important to do it as you suggested and align the engine and frame so that the bolt goes back in easily without force then torque everything to spec. Not doing it this way has led to complaints of the bike handling weird and pulling to the left.

 

[kipper]

Maybe remove the nut and gently tap the bolt out using a round bar same diameter as the bolt but a bit longer would keep everything in line.Then you could mount your crashbar and repeat the procedure using the bolt to gently push out the round bar.

 

[scot in exile]

Is it done yet

 

[Ishrub]

If the instructions are German are they Fehling bars? If so they have a replacement longer cross bar which is just threaded rod with a nylock nut at each end. Still seems to fit OK though. But make sure the bolt taps and pulls out easily. I heavily greased my threaded rod to reduces snagging the threads on casting and did not have a problem.

Did you get your belly pan already - if so were the brackets pre - fitted? Does it have cutouts to suit your front bar?

 

[m6w6]

Just a suggestion: I had to relief the frame of the forks' weight and the weight of the front wheel when I was mounting my crash bars. Else the bolt was not really willing to move.

This is the moment one realizes the meaning of "frame supporting engine" at last

 

[Lucifer Orange]

If the instructions are German are they Fehling bars? If so they have a replacement longer cross bar which is just threaded rod with a nylock nut at each end. Still seems to fit OK though. But make sure the bolt taps and pulls out easily. I heavily greased my threaded rod to reduces snagging the threads on casting and did not have a problem.

Did you get your belly pan already - if so were the brackets pre - fitted? Does it have cutouts to suit your front bar?

Yeah they are the feeling bars. Would like to use the original bolt as opposed to the threaded bar which I do have in the kit. Will use plenty of copper crest when fitting.
Have belly pan but will need to cut holes to fit around bars. Have hole saw on way to cut and then will post results

 

[Lucifer Orange]

Yeah they are the feeling bars. Would like to use the original bolt as opposed to the threaded bar which I do have in the kit. Will use plenty of copper crest when fitting.
Have belly pan but will need to cut holes to fit around bars. Have hole saw on way to cut and then will post results

*fehling
No holes in belly pan at all, cross that bridge this weekend. Is a lovely bit of kit however. I am going to get some 3M paint protective film on it to help cut down on wear and tear

 

[Ishrub]

You will not get it on without their longer bar.