Recent trip on new R3T and just general rambling.

Everyone who has attempted to test the bead balancing (on motorcycle wheels, specifically) have reported that they can't measure any improvement. We also know that people are extremely prone to falling for placebo - if you believe things improved, and you really want to believe things have improved - you'll convince yourself things have improved. And once you do that, you're going to be a true believer and be completely convinced they're the greatest thing since they invented sex...

Thanks, croft. When I read some of the reviews by people who use beads, the first thing I thought of was the placebo effect. As you say, people see what they want to see. I completely agree with you about that. But I wanted to check the whole bead thing out a little more and see if there is anything to it. I found enough experienced mechanics and even guys who work for tire businesses who normally wouldn't be fooled by nonsense swearing by them so I thought I would dig a little deeper. I remain very skeptical but I will do a little more checking. I may open a separate thread on the subject. If they do work as claimed, balance wouldn't go out over time as it does with lead weights. I really doubt I'll use beads, though.
 
Thank you everyone for your helpful responses. I'm almost anxious to change tires now after reading your posts. If I do the shorter (but still pretty long) trips I'm planning this fall, I'll be ready to change the tires before winter.
 
I have also had that oil light problem, and I know of one other, both were fixed by removing and or cleaning the wires on the oil pressure sensor.

Bob - Thanks for the info. I thought of that possibility when the light came on but, the bike being new, I'm still not that familiar with everything on it. (I do all my own work on every machine I have unless, as in the case of the oil pressure switch, it's under warrantee or I'm stuck on a mountain road without parts, etc.) I didn't even know where the oil pressure switch was. I do now, though. I just looked it up in my shop manual for future reference. Question: Did you have to remove the rear wheel and fender to get access to it? The reason I ask is that that's what the manual says but it doesn't look like that would be necessary from what I can tell.

It's funny but it looks like some things are harder to get at than in engines on cars. I'm not looking forward to all the stuff that has to be gotten out of the way to check the valve shims.
 
Bob - Thanks for the info. I thought of that possibility when the light came on but, the bike being new, I'm still not that familiar with everything on it. (I do all my own work on every machine I have unless, as in the case of the oil pressure switch, it's under warrantee or I'm stuck on a mountain road without parts, etc.) I didn't even know where the oil pressure switch was. I do now, though. I just looked it up in my shop manual for future reference. Question: Did you have to remove the rear wheel and fender to get access to it? The reason I ask is that that's what the manual says but it doesn't look like that would be necessary from what I can tell.

It's funny but it looks like some things are harder to get at than in engines on cars. I'm not looking forward to all the stuff that has to be gotten out of the way to check the valve shims.
I had mine fixed under warranty, I don't think they removed any parts, just waited for the engine to cool, removed the seat I think. P.s. My bike was new also had the first service and then about 3000 Klm when the problem started. Triumph were awear of the problem after speaking to head office.
 
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