Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
unless we are using ceramic bearings they will spin for long time with no resistance, friction bad no friction (resistance) good.
Rear Wheel Bearing Frozen?
- Thread starter RockOn
- Start date
Journeyman
"And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks
Cause you have no way of really knowing (beyond the test mentioned above) until you get them out and then you sure ain't putting those ones back in, of course. I don't know. Can't think of any other mechanical thing where it is agreed upon the bearing shouldn't turn fairly easily. There's a design flaw, in my opinion- which is what a lot of folks are trying to figure out.
There's a difference between "a drag" and won't turn without a hard effort.
Having said that, you are a mechanic and I am not, which is a 100% true fact. Not arguing, just trying to understand...
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
a friend of mine just installed some of those. i guess we will find out about them.
Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
price quality definitely matter when it comes to ceramic (all) bearings as they are very expensive, world wide bearings are supposedly very good and hence the most expensive but very low resistance. It is a thing on race bikes throughout every complete. Pretty wild stuff available to the everyday person now a days. (About 600 for wheels 5) but you can get them if your heart desires. Mine does 
on the drag only bike maybe if i can sexup the wife and break into the vault.
on the drag only bike maybe if i can sexup the wife and break into the vault.
sonny
Living Legend
Ceramic bearings are Ok if your at the race track. Everyday riding maybe not the best choice. The biggest failure on wheel bearings is not the quality of bearings being installed but how they are installed. Yes i ride a bit and have adjusted the torque on the back wheel. Have no clue why folks are talking Ft lbs when we ride metric bikes.
Tripps
Retired superhero
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Probably because most of us are old and have ft/lb torque wrenches, lol.
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
RockOn
Turbocharged
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- 2006 R3 Classic, 2008 R3T, 2009 Harley Ultra
My new Nachi bearing from VXB.com arrived today, just ordered it yesterday. They are only 80 or so miles North of me in LA. It was described just as you have it listed at the bottom, however it was not made in Japan. Side of the box says, "Nachi Brazil".My comments
At 81 ft/lbs of rear axle torque, the rotor wheel bearing appears to always feel tight (Not sure if this is an issue??). Why so much torque? I think this high amount is needed to compress the cush drive rubber between the final drive and wheel. I have tried several lower torque settings (along with multiple bearing sets) over several thousand kilometers trying to get rid of an annoying clicking sound (Another story). With the lower torque value I have noticed that the rotor side bearing remains loose/smooth like new but causes another problem. It appears when a lower torque value is used, there isn't enough preload on the cush drive resulting in my center wheel bearing eventually spinning in the bore of the rim. The center bearing outer race ends up having a slip fit in the wheel. To fix this I replaced all the bearings with Nachi premium ones. The slip fit in the center bearing was fixed using Loctite 638 to prevent the outer race from spinning in the rim. The rotor bearing that is prone to feeling tight after being torqued to 81 ft/lbs, appears to be designed to take some side load. With this in mind, I retorqued the axle to Triumph spec several thousand kilometers ago with no issues. We will see if the bearing is tight next tire change.
I really wonder if the bearing becoming tight is an issue because as soon as it is knocked out of the rim, it feels fine. vxb.com is where a number of us purchased ours. The C3 bearings have a higher load rating. You would need 1 of each bearing listed below for the rear wheel.
Chip
Turbocharged
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Bearing specifications are very different from spinning in your hand. My company used S.K.F. almost exclusively. Probably somebody knew somebody.... The point is loading charts were used to set shafts to shives. The speed that our rear wheels achieve and the weight on the rear of the machine along with side stress makes for obvious issue. Throw in dummies like me who use pressure washers to clean the wheels and it soon comes obvious that holdin a bearing in one hand, turning a race with a finger isn‘t telling us anything useful. Good investment is a machinery stethoscope. Any sound, not a constant, means a damaged bearing. At the cost of a bearing being low, automatic replacement. By the way the stethoscope is under $15.00
