Rear tire removal
- Thread starter spaceman
- Start date
nightrocket
.040 Over
if you have a way to safely lift the bike yes. iv done it with two floor jacks and iv done it with an automotive hoist. liked the hoist best. make sure to brake the caliper bracket bolt and the axle nut loose before lifting the bike. lift it by what looks like the center stand mounts. i recommend using tie straps to stabilize the bike. once airborne pull the axle mostly out pull the caliper bracket bolt, the caliper and bracket come out together. take note of the spacer between the bracket and the wheel, youl want that for later. put a rag on the exhaust and just lay that assembly on that. now lift the bike way up pull the axle all the way out, slide wheel (supporting its weight) away from the final drive. then just roll the wheel out this is where you might have to go even higher, depends on if you still have stock plate brackets. when you put it together if you have some expensive, or synthetic wheel bearing grease to apply on the axle and drive gear nows a great opportunity.
rusty
Turbocharged
Hey Spaceman, I'll throw this in. On the bolt/nut (sorry, can't recall which) that holds the caliper bracket to the swingarm, use a 6 point wrench or socket. They put thread lock on it & it's a bear. I used a wrench because I did not want to remove the right side exhaust megaphones to get a socket straight on it. Anyway, I only had a 12 point metric set but after I almost screwed up the hex, I purchased a 6 point set just to assure I could get some "umph" on the fastener for tightening & not do any more damage.
Nightrocket is correct. If you have a way of lifting the bike, that would be best. I used my centerstand to straighten the bike & removed the rear fender to get the wheel off mine (I wanted to save $$$$$ too). Had to take the wiring out of the holders along the underside of the fender to gain some freedom (extra length) to pull the fender toward the rear of the bike to release the yolk grip they designed in. You don't have to disconnect any wiring, simply create a little slack to pull the fender back & off the grommets. Then I placed a towel across the frame where the seat goes & laid the fender crossways to the frame out of the way until reinstallation was a hand.
Is really "No step for a Stepper" as Dad used to say.
See ya.
Nightrocket is correct. If you have a way of lifting the bike, that would be best. I used my centerstand to straighten the bike & removed the rear fender to get the wheel off mine (I wanted to save $$$$$ too). Had to take the wiring out of the holders along the underside of the fender to gain some freedom (extra length) to pull the fender toward the rear of the bike to release the yolk grip they designed in. You don't have to disconnect any wiring, simply create a little slack to pull the fender back & off the grommets. Then I placed a towel across the frame where the seat goes & laid the fender crossways to the frame out of the way until reinstallation was a hand.
Is really "No step for a Stepper" as Dad used to say.
See ya.
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nightrocket
.040 Over
good point on that bolt. its a bolt with a stud in the end like an inch thats not threaded. i forgot to mention that im 6'5 and 310lbs so my umph is a little different than most, and i think i used a cheater on it to brake it loose.
Gunshots
Nitrous
You can get by without raising the bike as high by dropping the right turn signal and rolling the tire out. there is clearance enough between the right side pipes and the fender . you still will have to raise the bike but only about five or six inches.
If you plan to mount the tire for yourself, I suggest a dose of liquid encouragement, As mentioned before on other post, the design of the rear hoop is a ill fated attempt on Triumph's part. give your dealer 30 bucks and save yourself some greif..
If you plan to mount the tire for yourself, I suggest a dose of liquid encouragement, As mentioned before on other post, the design of the rear hoop is a ill fated attempt on Triumph's part. give your dealer 30 bucks and save yourself some greif..
It takes a bit of finagaling but can be done with just a bike lift but use a board to support the bike better. If your not a wrench by trade or hobby best leave it to those who do it for a living. I just swapped cat boxes this afternoon and ran into the same problems as last time but was prepared and had the right tools. I did the rear tire too and it wasn't all that bad as I had the right size allen for the rear axle bolt. Reassembly is the fun part getting the friggin wheel and brake back on. Raising the bike so you could get the tire in positioned is best done with a sky hook of some sort
. I took too long figuring the bevel wasn't seated correctly but if it fits with the spacers it's a go. Good luck Spaceman. The 30.00 went for the tire mount and balance. To me just getting the old tire off is worth it.
. I took too long figuring the bevel wasn't seated correctly but if it fits with the spacers it's a go. Good luck Spaceman. The 30.00 went for the tire mount and balance. To me just getting the old tire off is worth it.
scot in exile
Living Legend
To save $30.00 No it is not worth it, I have had my rear wheel off and on a few times and I would gladly pay someone $30.00 to do it.
HeR3tic
Living Legend
A 3/8" bolt has a 9/16" head on it. This is a suitable alternative to the metric allen wrench for the left side of the axle bolt.
A 15/16" wrench can be use on the axle nut. A torque wrench and socket may be needed if you haven't a calibrated arm.
I loosened the lower right muffler and dropped it. Which made several issues easily accessible.
I jacked it up on a cheap Sears m/c lift with the front wheel secured to the ground. The caliper clamp on mine was not nearly as stubborn as has been said by others.
The spacer, earlier mentioned, requires attention as to which direction for installation.
Get yourself a set of brake pads on hand, if you're a heavy rear brake user. They'll run you 20 for the organics and 40 for the metallics.
A 15/16" wrench can be use on the axle nut. A torque wrench and socket may be needed if you haven't a calibrated arm.
I loosened the lower right muffler and dropped it. Which made several issues easily accessible.
I jacked it up on a cheap Sears m/c lift with the front wheel secured to the ground. The caliper clamp on mine was not nearly as stubborn as has been said by others.
The spacer, earlier mentioned, requires attention as to which direction for installation.
Get yourself a set of brake pads on hand, if you're a heavy rear brake user. They'll run you 20 for the organics and 40 for the metallics.
