Rattles from the front cover

[Hardware_Hank]

My 07 R3 classic with 53,000 miles came down with a case of the "paint can rattle." Since I'm WAY out of warranty, and will be doing the repair myself, are there any parts from the "repair kit" I've heard of, that I dont need to replace, or any additional parts I should replace since I'll be in there?

I'm already going to be adjusting my valve clearances, and doing a coolant flush and oil change. Any other services I should look into?

 

[Steel]

Hey @warp9.9 ! This might be something you would have an answer for

 

[warp9.9]

53k measure the drop in the cam chain tensioner. See how much further then 16 mm it is. It might be time for new cam chain and guides . This is not bad since you want to do the valves. In fact I'd measure today because if it is time to change it you just might want to ordrr some cams from Santa Lush
One question, silver or black engine?

You can measure with calipers if you have them verses the go no go gauge they send with the spacer. If 8t not to far past 16 mm a spacer just might work but with the mileage its close to triumphs recomended chain time.

When you pull the center nut off the tensioner. Do not turn the engine over by any method until you reinstall the center nut.

If you need explanation on measuring the drop I can fix you up.

 

[Hardware_Hank]

It has the black engine. So for sure the crank sprocket and key, maybe new tensioner, chain, and guide? And cams, if Ms. Claus let's me

 

[warp9.9]

It has the black engine. So for sure the crank sprocket and key, maybe new tensioner, chain, and guide? And cams, if Ms. Claus let's me

They sell a kit with the cam gears and chain and a guide kit. But seriously if its just a sloppy chain the crank gear as well as the cam gears could be just fine. The reason I say this is I doubt it would take 53k for the crank gear to get sloppy if it was the faulty ones that brought about the coffee can rattle. Then your bike is a 07 do you know if it has had the update kit? Not that it needs it but it could be a sign that the motor has been updated. I think you should check the tensioner drop first could take you 5 minutes at the most one wrench or socket and a dial caliper. Or if your a machinist a depth micrometer will be fine.

But your right chain, guides (both) , clutch cover gasket, time for new hoses? (Since your in her?) You won't need a new tensioner if its dropped its doing its job. Before you measure the drop put the bike in like 2nd gear, (engine not running)stand it up and without pulling in on the clutch rock it back and forth. This is in case the auto tensioner is ready to make a adjustment.

 

[Hardware_Hank]

They sell a kit with the cam gears and chain and a guide kit. But seriously if its just a sloppy chain the crank gear as well as the cam gears could be just fine. The reason I say this is I doubt it would take 53k for the crank gear to get sloppy if it was the faulty ones that brought about the coffee can rattle. Then your bike is a 07 do you know if it has had the update kit? Not that it needs it but it could be a sign that the motor has been updated. I think you should check the tensioner drop first could take you 5 minutes at the most one wrench or socket and a dial caliper. Or if your a machinist a depth micrometer will be fine.

But your right chain, guides (both) , clutch cover gasket, time for new hoses? (Since your in her?) You won't need a new tensioner if its dropped its doing its job. Before you measure the drop put the bike in like 2nd gear, (engine not running)stand it up and without pulling in on the clutch rock it back and forth. This is in case the auto tensioner is ready to make a adjustment.

The previous owner kept very good records, and mentioned nothing about having the upgrade kit installed. I'll check the tensioner drop as soon as I get a chance. Just to clarify, the measurement shouldn't be larger than 16mm or it needs a shim or replacement?

 

[warp9.9]

The previous owner kept very good records, and mentioned nothing about having the upgrade kit installed. I'll check the tensioner drop as soon as I get a chance. Just to clarify, the measurement shouldn't be larger than 16mm or it needs a shim or replacement?

In some cases A upgrade kit if completely done can be spotted by lifting the fuel tank and looking at the ignition Harness to see if it has the updated plug.

Anyway by the book at 16 mm that gauge they send you would bottom out on the shoulder that is 16 mm, at that point they insert a spacer .390 inch by .355 inch, you can use a 3/8 inch or 10 mm bolt shank cut to .355 inch long. this increases the tension on the spring helping the adjuster work and hopefully not kick back.
So once you pull the center nut you will see a shoulder just down in on the plunger. In the view below for vision you are measuring the drop between the two arrows

if this drop exceeds the 16 mm the spacer goes in but they do not tell you what if anything after that. so the plunger only drops 25 mm well .520" to be exact. so if your plunger is way down of course add the spacer but be aware as the tension pressure is really decreasing especially if the plunger is bottoming out. This would indicate guides and at least chain. the gears on the cams most likely are good Still.

Are you versed with using a dial caliper? not to be a smart arse but not everyone is a machinist so I ask in case I need to provide you some measuring pictures?

 

[Hardware_Hank]

In some cases A upgrade kit if completely done can be spotted by lifting the fuel tank and looking at the ignition Harness to see if it has the updated plug.

Anyway by the book at 16 mm that gauge they send you would bottom out on the shoulder that is 16 mm, at that point they insert a spacer .390 inch by .355 inch, you can use a 3/8 inch or 10 mm bolt shank cut to .355 inch long. this increases the tension on the spring helping the adjuster work and hopefully not kick back.
So once you pull the center nut you will see a shoulder just down in on the plunger. In the view below for vision you are measuring the drop between the two arrows

if this drop exceeds the 16 mm the spacer goes in but they do not tell you what if anything after that. so the plunger only drops 25 mm well .520" to be exact. so if your plunger is way down of course add the spacer but be aware as the tension pressure is really decreasing especially if the plunger is bottoming out. This would indicate guides and at least chain. the gears on the cams most likely are good Still.

Are you versed with using a dial caliper? not to be a smart arse but not everyone is a machinist so I ask in case I need to provide you some measuring pictures?

I have had some training on how to use different types of calipers and gauges, but haven't had to use any in practice.

 

[idk]

Make sure that every panel, screw, bolt, nut, etc on everything you can find on the bike is tight before you go diving into the engine. You may be surprised what external noises can sound like internal noises.

 

[Tripps]

I have had some training on how to use different types of calipers and gauges, but haven't had to use any in practice.

Hardware Hank, great screen name.