R3T let me down again, won't start.

In the middle of the Canadian Rockies my R3Y 2012 won't start. No power to the lights or LED panel. Try to booster no joy. Bump started going down a mountain road and never shut it off until I made to Armstrong BC my destination for a few days. CAA pick up the bike and took it to a dealer in Kelowna BC 40 miles away. Waited all day for the bike with no guarantee they could fix it or even get to look at it on a Saturday. Finally they found the problem, a burnt connector from the ignition switch, which they removed and spiced all the wires back together again. The tech said he wouldn't bother replacing the switch it should be fine the way it is. Here's the pics. Piss poor engineering I would say
Fast forward 6 week, Rocket won't start. No power to the starter. Battery 12.95 Volts, kill switch checked, fuses ok, relay click when starter button pushed, clutch switch okay.

Anybody got an idea what to check next. Its a 4 hour trailer ride and an hotel room to get to the dealer in Fargo MN US and I'm in Canada. Triumph closed the dealer in my city.

Once I get this fixed I'm going to sell it and buy something other than a Triumph due to the lack of service and reliability in my city.

Sidde stand UP? check side stand switch? IN GEAR??


What is the VOLTAGE when the relay clicks? Should not drop below 12v.
Ever replaced the battery ? if not its 5 years old....
Battery connections loose? both at the battery and at the starter motor......

Recently had a similar situation with my 08 R3T. The battery cables were less than an 1/8 turn loose. Thightend them up and no problems since. Finished the ride, 3 gas stops and several rides since no problems.

Ted Gross said:

Once I get this fixed I'm going to sell it and buy something other than a Triumph due to the lack of service and reliability in my city.

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Whilst this is not what I would do, I do fully understand. If you depend on others to do the work - you need a good support network.

But IMO that workshop are a bunch of pirates. Need shooting. Start by talking to @DEcosse - he is our electrical guru - builds keyless conversions and then some.

13V is no guaranty of AMPS - been there.

Chopping that entire connector set out for ONE terminal was pretty extreme - all that had to be spliced was that one wire position
Also, these connectors are readily available

That position that was burned is for the Headlight/Starter Solenoid

1. Is your headlight on?
2, What is the voltage at battery with the headlight on?
3. Check Fuse #9
4. For emergency start Pull Fuse 1 and Fuse 9 - take a piece of AT LEAST 16 ga wire and insert between the Fuse 1 and Fuse 9 positions, jamming the wire back in with the original fuses.*
Turn on the Key, Kill to Run and press starter button and pull clutch - provided battery is good, then starter should run
(Note that you will be unable to shut off your headlight without pulling that jumper but it should work to get you going)

* Note that this jumper will be pulling 10A when the starter is running so be sure you have REALLY good connection

Thanks for the reply. I will try the jumper on F1and F9 in the morning and let you all know.
Answer to Q1: no headlight Q2: purchase a new battery with no joy today.

If no headlight then either
a) Fuse 9 is blown
b) Fuse 2 is blown (but you would not have any Ignition Power either)
c) the splice connection replacing connector set is open between the Brown & Blue/Yellow wires
d)the splice connection replacing connector set is open between the White & White/Blue wires (but you would not have any Ignition Power either)
e) the Key-Switch is bad

Were you running a 'stock' 55/60W headlight bulb?
Did you have any other non-OEM accessory circuits connected?

Could not wait till morning. Jumped F1 and F9. Starter turn and Bike started. "Hallelujah" Head lamps on, but no fog lamps.

May have be a mod on the fog lamps because the switch doesn't work and they are on all the time.

So are you suggesting I look at the connector splices and see if the Brown & Blue/Yellow wires are open. maybe a poor splice or over heated?

Where do I send the whisky too for the help?

Ted Gross said:

Could not wait till morning. Jumped F1 and F9. Starter turn and Bike started. "Hallelujah" Head lamps on, but no fog lamps.

May have be a mod on the fog lamps because the switch doesn't work and they are on all the time.

So are you suggesting I look at the connector splices and see if the Brown & Blue/Yellow wires are open. maybe a poor splice or over heated?

Where do I send the whisky too for the help?

Click to expand...

A friend of mine had the same problem with his Touring. He changed the 35w fog lamps against 55w and the fuse blow. Now he has to change to 35w back again or must install a relais

FIT LED REPLACEMENT UNITS IN THE FOGLIGHTS. Have your cake and eat it. See better and use less amps (thus less watts).