Outer Cush Drive Assembly

[TURBO200R4]

The studs that are now gone were installed to 57Nm part# T2012154, and the nuts are torqued to 100 Nm in two passes, first pass to 25Nm and second pass to 100. Who ever did the final torque must have used a pneumatic impact wrench to shear those threads. The stud size is listed below.

M12 x 1.25 x 56.5​

i have seen a lot of bolts/nuts overtighten must of the time it stretches the thread and locks down the nut/bolt so you break the stud/bolt trying to take it off.
most likely left them loose or put them on backwards if nuts.

 

[mikevujcich]

Has anyone had to take apart or replace their outer cush drive assembly, and if so, does the large stem going through the whole assembly unscrew with the torx bit from the outside, or the large wrench from the inside?

All 5 of my studs snapped in half yesterday while riding, luckily the wheel kept in the wheel well and I was going slow enough to stop, so I did not crash, but if warranty doesn't cover this (purchased 2 years ago), then ill have to replace it myself.

The diagram shows it taken apart, but not really instructions on how it comes apart.

The large torx screw is your starting point. After that I'm not much help.
Possible the nuts were tightened to 70 fp instead of 70 nm ?
The whole rear drive comes off easily, lift brake off and hang, take off light bar and hang, remove abs sensor. Take off the 4 cap screws and your on the bench

 

[mikevujcich]

The large torx screw is your starting point. After that I'm not much help.
Possible the nuts were tightened to 70 fp instead of 70 nm ?
The whole rear drive comes off easily, lift brake off and hang, take off light bar and hang, remove abs sensor. Take off the 4 cap screws and your on the bench

Oops, it is 100 Nm with 25 first.

 

[Andy Brooke]

My manual says 110nm? Rear Wheel Nuts 81 lbf ft (110 Nm)

 

[Journeyman]

I knew when I first starting reading this that the bike had recently been in a shop and that you weren't the mechanic. Upon further reading- confirmed.

Based on what @TURBO200R4 said, I'll bet they did the first round of tightening and got sidetracked. Then, over time the nuts continued loosening up. If so, I'd think you might have felt some wheel wobble before it failed, or at least weird drifting in corners. No?

If they over torqued them that much, holy crap Batman!

As @Kevin frazier said, best to do your own work, whenever possible. I think many riders don't because they think they'll mess something up, well....

I flew to Dallas years back to get a Triumph Trophy and got a flat in Arkansas going home. Got a new tire and the mechanic over-tightened the front axle bolt so much that the internal axle spacer was crushed and the bearings went out by the time I got home and figured it out. They paid me for those parts and your (hopefully ex) shop should too. Demand it!
For me, that was a big factor in my starting to do my own work. I don't have half the knowledge of many on this site, but I know how to read a cook book and just treat the service manual the same way. Most of it really is not, um, Rocket science.

Call corporate, if necessary, 'cause if the shop isn't at fault Triumph would be admitting that those bolts are capable of breaking under load, which is ridiculous/impossible.

I'm really glad that you were able to walk away from this and that mechanic is very lucky your family isn't suing him and the dealership right now.....