Oil Level

[fat frank]

OK, I'm rally asking for a gig from this queastion, but what is the proper way to check the oil level. If it hasn't been run, you start and let it run for a short while. Then I've read you wait 10 minutes and I've seen that you can check it right away.
Thanks in advance and let the bashing begin.lol
Later

 

[HellFire]

IMO dry sump engines are best checked right after you shut them off. You NEVER want to check and ADD oil after it's been sitting for any extended length of time. Checking the level is fine, but adding oil without running it risks over filling. Check valves are supposed to keep the oil in the tank while stopped, but on the chance some has drained back to the engine sump, you can't trust a low reading on a cold motor.

 

[fat frank]

Thanks for the responce. I just found another thread on it and he caught hell for the question.lol My reason is, if I put in the recommended amount, I show a slight overfill on my Roadster. So actually, after a run, I can turn her off and pull the dip stick right away? With a complete oil change including the filter, I'm putting in about 5 1/2 quarts and that's showing a slight overfill if I pull the ds right away.
Yhanks again for the response.
later

 

[HellFire]

It's a legitimate question, no reason to berate anyone for asking it. Most people are unfamiliar with dry sump engines, not many cars out there using them.
As long as you are careful, you can even check them running.
It's important not to overfill wet sump engines since there are moving parts in and over the oil. Levels aren't so important with dry sumps since it's really just a holding area for the fluid. There isn't but just a small amount of oil in use at any one time in an engine anyway, the oil in the filter, pumps and passages providing pressure to moving parts is all that's doing the job. There will be a little more running down the block from the valve train, in return lines and at the bottom of the dry sump being scavenged by the return pumps. The other 4 1/2 quarts are to give the oil time to cool before going back to work.

So being off the mark isn't critical and a little over full won't hurt anything in engines with oil holding tanks.

 

[Captain Bob]

That was a great reply Hellfire. And you are right, it is a legitimate question. Actually all questions are legitimate. No one should ever be ridiculed for asking a question. The only dumb question is the one that is never asked.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

1. Get on the bike, straddle it in a vertical position and start it up. Let in run for a minute or two and shut it off. Reach over and pull rhe dipstick (while keeping it vertical) and check the level.

2. Never check the oil with the bike on the sidestand. The reading will be false. The oil tank has to be in the upright position.

3. Never check the oil on a cold, unrun engine. There is an anti-drainback check in the oil line that wrks well on new engines but almost always leaks on older engines. Checking the oil on an unrun engine will almost always indicate a low oil condition and you'll overfill the tank resulting in too much oil and a blown off oil cap when you finally start the engine....and a mess.

Rocket 3 engines consume very little oil, if any. Good oil control rings and internal engine design.

 

[HellFire]

Rocket 3 engines consume very little oil, if any. Good oil control rings and internal engine design.

.... of course it has nothing to do with it not being a 15,000 rpm engine.

.... I seem to remember the Massey not using much either.

 

[HellFire]

This talk about oil made me go check mine .... It's been sitting for 6 days.

Just pulling out the stick w/bike leaning, it was up 1/4 inch from the bottom. Never seen it that low, but I've never checked it before starting it either.

Let it run for awhile and kept checking it to watch it rise ... it took awhile for the tank to fully fill ... maybe 5 min.

Turned out it was about 1/8 quart low, but I haven't added ANY at all, and the last oil change was 8,000 miles ago. Not bad with as hard as I run her.
Even though I'll be changing the oil/filter soon, I topped it off anyway (if I hadn't, I'd be thinking about it being low until it was changed or filled ).

The dealer did the last service, I'm thinking about doing this next one myself. Lately I haven't been able to plan more than a week into the future because of the job, and they always take a month to get an appointment.

Flip you have all the washers I need along with the filter don't you?

 

[triroketman]

Last month I changed the oil and filter. Bought 6 quarts and only used 5. Never opened the 6th one. I have checked the level half a dozen times since then. Always on the money.

 

[Air Force Mark]

So I'm going to go for a little ride today, the beast has been sitting for about a week and a half (too cold to ride), yeah, I know, I'm a puss.
I check tire pressure, good. I check oil level, not good, not even on the stick.
I start to panic and then remember "dry sump".
Start the bike and let run for a minute or two. Check oil level, it's still not showing on the stick.
I ride the length of my driveway, about a thousand feet each way. Park the bike wait a minute and check the level, still not on the stick.
I hop in my truck, drive to Pep Boys, pay $9.49 for a quart of Mobile 1 4T and drive back home.
It takes almost a quart to get the level in the "safe" area.
Go on my 100 mile ride and check the level after I arrive home.
It's over filled by about a quart! Grrrrrrrr!
I'll get the turkey baster out and remove the excess.

Anyone know why it took so long to get the oil in the holding tank?
Low oil levels make me very nervous.
Thanks
Mark