oil crazy

[HellFire]

Yeah, it's the O-ring that will need replacing more often than the aluminum washers. I was looking at the schematics and still don't see what the purpose of the O-ring is.... anybody know?

 

[JohnnyCanuck]

Hi Ashton. You'll need 3 washers + 1 O-ring for the oil change. The 2 washers for the sump are a different size than the washer for the oil tank.

So you'll need:

1) 2 x sump bolt washer part # T3550605

2) 1 x oil tank washer part # T3550123

3) 1 x O-ring (goes on the bolt for the oil tank) part # T3600104

Welcome to B.C.!

 

[ashtonford]

thanks

thanks for the imformation and I love it here in BC

 

[atomsplitter]

Yes thanks to you that's what I did and it worked no leak
The washers cost me like $13.00 3 alluminum washers and on little rubber and two alluminum washers are the same size and the one for the bottle is a little bigger but not much.
I wounder if I can get away again with the tape next oil change

As long as you don't mash the washers flat (over torque) they can be re-used multiple times. The thread design of the plug (tapered) provides most of the sealing, the teflon tape ensures it's sealed, the plug is torqued to prevent it backing out from vibration. The o-ring ensures the oil flowpath is not bypassed.

 

[gwilliams290]

The reason for the o-ring is probably because the torque limit for the drain plug is lower than might be for a bolt that diameter. You're not torquing the bolt for strength but to seal the drain hole, which is the diameter it is for "quick" drainage, and so the drain bolt won't fall out. My usual torque rating is " tight as you can get it + 1/2 a turn" . That might work nicely on cars and trucks but not "precision" vehicles like our Rockets.

 

[atomsplitter]

Yeah, it's the O-ring that will need replacing more often than the aluminum washers. I was looking at the schematics and still don't see what the purpose of the O-ring is.... anybody know?

I could be 100% wrong but looking at the sump diagram it appears like the drain plug o-ring seats against the oil tank non-return valve (valve prevents draining the oil tank into the sump). I didn't see an exploded view of the non-return valve but I would surmise it's a simple check valve. The scavenge pump pushes the oil back into the tank, pulling the plug bypasses the check and drains the oil. Just my guess.

 

[HellFire]

That's what I was thinking too, but if it sealed something inside, removing the plug would allow some of the draining oil into the sump. I drained the sump with the two plugs first and finger tightened them back in before removing the tank plug to test my theory. After draining the tank I pulled the sump plugs out again to see if some oil had gone back into the sump. Nope, nothing, no extra oil went into the sump, that's why I was curious about it.
It's not going to kill me if I don't know the answer, it's just one of those little mysteries that grabs my curiosity by the nutz. LOL

 

[busajack]

The reason for the o-ring is probably because the torque limit for the drain plug is lower than might be for a bolt that diameter. You're not torquing the bolt for strength but to seal the drain hole, which is the diameter it is for "quick" drainage, and so the drain bolt won't fall out. My usual torque rating is " tight as you can get it + 1/2 a turn" . That might work nicely on cars and trucks but not "precision" vehicles like our Rockets.

Amen on the O ring, don't remember but does the rear end oil plug have a a O ring? If it does the torque should be less.