Noise from Transmission

Warp when I ease off the power I hear a clunk noise coming from low front left on engine
All gears select properly but a tad noisy
I have renewed about 5000 miles ago back diff and drive shaft after both failed all new bearings in gearbox
I am wondering if I have maybe overheated or stressed the large spring on the torque converter or maybe clutch springs
have lost their tension
Bike runs well apart from this almost 75,000 very hard miles as you know I abuse this bike on a regular basis
Will need to open up just interested to see what you think before I do.

valmacmiami said:

Warp when I ease off the power I hear a clunk noise coming from low front left on engine
All gears select properly but a tad noisy
I have renewed about 5000 miles ago back diff and drive shaft after both failed all new bearings in gearbox
I am wondering if I have maybe overheated or stressed the large spring on the torque converter or maybe clutch springs
have lost their tension
Bike runs well apart from this almost 75,000 very hard miles as you know I abuse this bike on a regular basis
Will need to open up just interested to see what you think before I do.

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I know you said left front but I was wondering if you ever checked the cushion drive on th erear wheel? I was thinking maybe if it was sloppy the clunk would tenasfer up the drive line. Easiest thin the check first as you only have to pull the rear wheel If it seem sloppy you could shim them with some leather to tighten it up and test if the clunk goes away you need a new cushion. Otherwise I am wondering about the rivets holding the clutch basket onto the backlash eliminator that is in the left front end. It would mean pulling the front cover to look but your well versed at that. I would still check the cushion drive first and check. Let me do some more thinking on it.

warp9.9 said:

I know you said left front but I was wondering if you ever checked the cushion drive on th erear wheel? I was thinking maybe if it was sloppy the clunk would tenasfer up the drive line. Easiest thin the check first as you only have to pull the rear wheel If it seem sloppy you could shim them with some leather to tighten it up and test if the clunk goes away you need a new cushion. Otherwise I am wondering about the rivets holding the clutch basket onto the backlash eliminator that is in the left front end. It would mean pulling the front cover to look but your well versed at that. I would still check the cushion drive first and check. Let me do some more thinking on it.

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Good thinking Batman will strip back wheel at weekend
I have been riding my Buell more than Rocket these days as it slips in and out of traffic much easier that and the fact state troopers are looking for a Rocket with a Scottish Flag on the back.

valmacmiami said:

and the fact state troopers are looking for a Rocket with a Scottish Flag on the back.

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I suggest hiding the Rocket out of state for a few days until the heat dies down, perhaps in Maggie Valley????????

idk said:

Replace it with an English flag - that'll confuse them. :lol:

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I Scotsman sporting an English flag :eek3: , now that would be novel. :lol:

Battersea said:

I Scotsman sporting an English flag :eek3: , now that would be novel. :lol:

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How 'bout a Welsh one!!! ... mebbe that's a bit too far?:exit:

TnT said:

Thanks for the info above, Warp.. I have the same amount of miles as the original poster.. and the same clunking in the transmission area.. I just changed clutch plates, but did not check the clutch basket. I am so good at not checking things.. lol On my car, I just replaced the head gaskets and had the heads cleaned, valve job, seals, etc.. but I didn't replace the lifters while I was in there... Now I have a lifter tapping in the mornings! Oh well.. I'll have to check the cush drive and go from there.. I was thinking maybe the joints in the drive shaft, but these suggestions sound more like it. I am actually leaning toward it being the clutch basket.

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Yes Rivets could be loose or the holes in them worn slotted which could crate a clunk. also on the back of the clutch basket there are heavy springs of different rates. the absorb shock in stages to the clutch by controling the collapse of the back lash eliminator. they can get worn bad or at least the plates do worse on 05 and 04 because the plates were thinner by .030 inch. I will look at the tranny I got later after the doctors and see if I can figure out anything else is could be. belowe is some pictures of wear that started on my 06 the I changed out it definetley was getting ready to go as onse the wear gets to much it pounds the rivets elongation them and the holes.

note on the springs the plate is starting to deform you can see it in both springs showing







I remember Gus from Baxters telling me when he torn min apart for the update that he could see I was using the full torsional damper I wonder if you can use one so much it gets sloppy thus clunking against the the ears as the slop gets taken up? Just ideas to help brain storm. I would still go withthe cushion drive first when you lay the rim over you can without taking the snap ring out stist it clock wise and anti clock was to feel the slopp I thin on a bike rolling this not would be amplified. I would think shiming it with leather all of them so there is no twist slopp and puting it back in and rod test would tell you if its it just by the noise change or elimination.
Ho[e this helps
off to rehab I go I will still ponder on this more.

Thanks again Warp will open it today and let you know what I find,always an experience opening this thing up.

Well removed rear wheel Cush drive looks ok wee bit of rubber dust but nothing much

Slop appears to be between the female splined connection on bevel drive and the drive shaft

The history of this is first I blew out the bevel drive on the rear wheel
Replaced diff with one I bought on e bay which purportedly had 2700 miles on it
Next the drive shaft splines went at forward end now replaced with new shaft
I suspect the wear is on the female part of the diff
I realize that good engineering practice would have been to replace both parts at same time but good engineering practice and pennies are sometimes not compatible.
If I can find a way to remove that splined connection and fit a new one I will do that
Otherwise I will need to bite the bullet and buy new bevel drive and new shaft any ideas on how to remove the splined connection
I have old one from old diff will try to remove that one first.

Have opened it up slop seems to be on the gears large gear on bottom has about 5 to 7 degrees of play