No start no neutral light

I've never tried starting in gear with clutch in - I thought that ECU needed to see neutral to start.
If the bike is in gear then it won't start with the kickstand down. If the kickstand is up, and the clutch is pulled in, then the bike should start - even if it is in gear. Of course, check the kill switch. ;)
 
I thought that ECU needed to see neutral to start.
ECU needs EITHER Neutral OR side-stand up - it WILL start, even in gear (i.e. no neutral indication), as long as side-stand is up.


The Touring model is different than the std (or Roadster) in that the Neutral Signal does not go directly to the Instruments (as well as the ECU, on those other models) only to the ECU.
If it won't start with side-stand raised either, you are chasing a red-herring with the neutral light indication.
The side-stand switch have to fail simultaneously if that were to be a consideration, as if it had previously been an issue, even if bike started it would have died immediately when put in gear.
(the ability to run, not just start, is interlocked by the side-stand or neutral status)
So I think fair to discount the neutral indication as being the prime mover here - and the lack of neutral indication is an effect rather than the cause.

Can you describe what else it does when you first turn on the key? (or set the Kill switch to run, after setting to kill)?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime? Do Instruments sweep?

Can you check for voltage at both sides of fuse 6?
Do you hear (or can you feel) the engine management relay 'click' when you turn Kill/Run switch on/off?

Again, different on the Touring, the Ignition Power goes directly to the Instruments BEFORE the Kill/Run switch - so the Oil indication etc is not necessarily an indication that the Ignition circuit is good - so check the Kill/Run switch and also the Engine Management Relay (and the Alarm Bypass connector)
Check the right-side bar-switch connector to main harness - make sure that is properly latched.

Some history would also be helpful - parked bike one day, went to start next, wouldn't start?
Or was there anything you did between last time it ran and now?
 
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ECU needs EITHER Neutral OR side-stand up - it WILL start, even in gear (i.e. no neutral indication), as long as side-stand is up.


The Touring model is different than the std (or Roadster) in that the Neutral Signal does not go directly to the Instruments (as well as the ECU, on those other models) only to the ECU.
If it won't start with side-stand raised either, you are chasing a red-herring with the neutral light indication.
The side-stand switch have to fail simultaneously if that were to be a consideration, as if it had previously been an issue, even if bike started it would have died immediately when put in gear.
(the ability to run, not just start, is interlocked by the side-stand or neutral status)
So I think fair to discount the neutral indication as being the prime mover here - and the lack of neutral indication is an effect rather than the cause.

Can you describe what else it does when you first turn on the key? (or set the Kill switch to run, after setting to kill)?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime? Do Instruments sweep?

Can you check for voltage at both sides of fuse 6?
Do you hear (or can you feel) the engine management relay 'click' when you turn Kill/Run switch on/off?
I'll check voltagea when I get home tonight. Not sure if I heard anything, i'll pay attention tonight. When I turn key on speedo does nothing, the oil pressure light, temperature warning light and check engine light all come on than pil light stays on other 2 turn off.
 
@DEcosse - I do not hear fuel pump prime. Don't hear relay click. There is 12.8 Volts from fuse 6 to ground.

Rode about 2 weeks ago parked in garage. Keep it on a battery tender.

Cycled kill switch, clutch, sidestand and no change. Will switch relays than disassemble kill switch cluster.
 
OK - check voltage at pin 1 & 2 of the alarm bypass connector (at the shorter of the two loops) while it is still connected and with the key-ignition on and kill to run.
If you have 12V (to ground) there that validates the Kill switch - conversely if not, look to that for your problem
Again, it's not unheard of for that connector latch to not hold securely and it may not be making good connection, so check that out first.

You don't by chance have an alarm on this bike do you? Just the std bypass connector with the two loops?

p.s. also check your fall-detect-switch - ensure that has not become loose.
 
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