No electrics

[Bedifferent]

The connectors are readily available - it's Sumitomo DL series
Available from Corsa-techinc or Eastern Beaver.
Corsa is in the US and has no min purchase requirement
I have these on hand hence my offer to send some terminals FOC to Alex. I use these to make my Keyless kits plug n play

A good crimping tool is really needed- I have,a number of different types
One affordable but excellent tool is the Hozan P-706 - in fact that is the one I usually use for these terminals. Available on ebay directly from Japan for about $45

Thanks! It sounds good and I just added the information to "parts to know about for my Rocket file". I make a point to track/index all the good parts, solutions and fixes I read about here on the forum. I even carry the files on my cell phone for reference.

 

[mully95]

Why in the hell is that crimping tool $1900.00?

 

[DEcosse]

Why in the hell is that crimping tool $1900.00?

You would have to ask that seller that

But that type of crimper (TH440 - typically sells for under $30) is NOT the correct type of crimp tool for connector terminals - that is an insulated/open barrel crimper.

An un-insulated such as the afore-mentioned Hozan is what is required
e.g. (no affiliation with seller) - HOZAN P-706 Open Barrel Crimper terminals contacts JAPAN NEW

The top jaws are for crimping the conductor, while the bottom is for the insulation/seal
For these Sumitomo Sealed connectors you would use that 'round' shaped one close to the bottom around the rubber seal

 

[mully95]

Oh.... thanks for explaining. That seller needs to be locked up. I guess some rich but stupid fellow has already bought one of those.

 

[sleeves]

Hi I got my connectors from the attached in the US (also no affiliation) but was cheap, quick and easy to deal with.

Motorcycle Connectors

Hope this is of help.

 

[johnreeder]

I have a 2008 R3T that has the same problem. Over the last year or so it would sometimes not start, everything is dead. Then out of now where I would gain power again and it wouldn't do it again for several weeks or months. It finally started doing it more often. I traced it down to the main ignition switch harness. I thought at first it was the switch, but discovered it was in the harness. All I had to do was to move the harness and it would come back to life. I opened up the harness and sprayed and crimped the connectors and it seemed to fix it, but now it's back and will not stay on more than 3 or 4 minutes. I didn't notice any overheated terminals last time, but now that I've seen this one I have more to check out. If I see it's the same problem, I may try removing the wire and hard wire it. This forum can be a life saver.

 

[Joesmoe]

@mully95 you could purchase the McCruise cruise control for your bike, and the connector tool comes with it.

 

[Joesmoe]

@DEcosse do you think this may be an endemic problem for all of us -- just a matter of time ? What to do about it ?

 

[johnreeder]

Not sure. I had a 2005 standard and never had an issue. Of course it probably had a little different set-up. I just hope when I do take mine down again I find a problem in the harness that I can see.

@DEcosse do you think this may be an endemic problem for all of us -- just a matter of time ? What to do about it ?

 

[Deacon1950]

Thought I had the ignition switch issue. The key had failed a couple of times, while riding I'd had the electrics stop and start, flickering, resetting clock the 12:00. All rather irritating.

I did this last year sometime. Also, last weekend I replaced the battery as it wasn't holding charge very well. Pretty sure that's a different issue.

So I cut off the ignition switch harness, and wired in a new switch. Did it after the socket, so, if necessary, I can just get a new ignition harness, but I'd rather not. I put in the switch using the wiring instructions found on the site in another thread - can't remember which one. That's been working pretty well for a while. Wired in using this diagram: http://curtandnancy.com/rocket/Ignition_Jumper_Illustration.jpg but as I said, can't remember the original thread.

Anyway, was out at the weekend, stopped for gas, and then the bike wouldn't turn back on. Pulled all the fuses - no issues with any of them. Not the first time this has happened. I pulled off the seat to jump it putting wires between the fuses, as explained here - shorted it, blew and fuse, and got all my power back, and the switch is working again. I've jumped it before using the instructions here - was in the process of shoving the wires in when it blew a fuse and came back to life. DIY Ignition Switch Repair - Get home, Keep Your Locks!

Now I'm totally confused. Can't be the ignition, I've cut it off. A short somewhere? How can I detect that? I have no training or ability with electrical issues.

Should add that some days I can walk up the bike in the morning and the switch is good, some days bad - without changing anything in the interim. Pretty crazy. Anyway, I'm now annoyed enough with it to post here and sort it out.

Bike is an '08 Touring.

2008 R3T with 50.000 miles same problem
see this is old listing what did u do to solve the problem?
so far I checked wires and looked for something overheating. Found the old owner put in a PIAA Halogen bulb Pulling Way to much Wattage so went to an LED at lower wattage (38w) then the OEM stock bulb but 3000 lumens (bless the mother of light lol) been 3 weeks has not happened again THANK GOD. the last time was getting on a California freeway doing 70 when it went dark.