**(Found One)** Need new/gently used drive shaft for Roadster/Touring #T1270700

I think the higher the horsepower, the spring on the end of the driveshaft cant handle the load and keep that shaft from pounding the bevel box. (If you are one that really pounds it, which means youre flyin, so not talking about normal riding) That part in there is where warp has said keep a glob of grease in there with that spring, obvious how that would make that spring stronger as the grease being liquid with not give under load if trapped. Just thinking out loud but that little spring plays a vital role im sure of it and would like to learn how it can be improved on if it can.

my guess would be all that spring is for is to hold the shaft forward into the motor other wise it might bang back and forth and wear out both of the splines.
 
my guess would be all that spring is for is to hold the shaft forward into the motor other wise it might bang back and forth and wear out both of the splines.
Exactly as the one i just replaced, ate up from the bevel box coupling which is way harder than the splines on the drive shaft, but its the driveshaft moving ofcourse and it probably shouldnt overwhelm that spring like that, heavier spring? The glob of grease works, but you better keep glob of grease in it.
 
Exactly as the one i just replaced, ate up from the bevel box coupling which is way harder than the splines on the drive shaft, but its the driveshaft moving ofcourse and it probably shouldnt overwhelm that spring like that, heavier spring? The glob of grease works, but you better keep glob of grease in it.
i don't know about a heavier spring
i guess my thought would be to find out how much clearance is in there and try to put a washer/washers to take up the slack and still leave a slight clearance.
because the trans convertors move forward because of high rpms/pressure i sometimes put washers in the crank pilots to keep them stable
 
i don't know about a heavier spring
i guess my thought would be to find out how much clearance is in there and try to put a washer/washers to take up the slack and still leave a slight clearance.
because the trans convertors move forward because of high rpms/pressure i sometimes put washers in the crank pilots to keep them stable
A compressed spring is total clearance, I think, you can feel the spring mash if you push in shaft off bike, in lap, as soon as spring kinda gives out it touches steel. im not sure when you say clearance but when you ratchet that driveshaft it moves that much and its hitting which mine did, cut nice 1/6 in groove in my shaft. thats alot of movement id think, anyway im betting he tears up another driveshaft, hes a hooligan, but @Journeyman28778 is our hooligan
 
Custom Spring winders would be able to wind a spring to whatever specifications you want, but I would go to an Engineering shop and have the spring rate tested and see what could replace it.
Similar to Bearings, I think Springs may come in standard engineering sizes too.

T1270500 - SPRING DRIVE SHAFT​

  • Reference: 16​

  • Part Number: T1270500​

  • Description: SPRING DRIVE SHAFT​


Not​

T1270888 - SPRING TORSIONAL DA​

  • Reference: 10​

  • Part Number: T1270888​

  • Description: SPRING TORSIONAL DA​

1638935158942.png
 
OK, I've got to chime in. When I installed the 2015 engine in my 05, I apparently lost the stupid spring, and didn't even think about it until I already had the swing arm in. Been running WITHOUT the spring for a few months now, no noticable problems, YET. I did a lot of thought about the purpose of that spring. Shaft slid all the way back, towards the final drive, "good" ? all of the splines being used. BUT would that allow some "wallowing" of the shaft on the front end with the U joint? Doesn't seem to. Time will tell, and I ain't about to rip into it, just for that silly (I hope) spring. :eek:

:oops:o_O:rolleyes:;)
 
Yep, I've pulled springs out of watches and clocks heaps of times and the hands still go round .... you just have to turn the knob .........and you can go back or forwards in time too!
Therefore I agree with you @cootertwo , springs are real downers ..... they are just the restrictors of possibility.;):roll::roll::roll:
 
OK, I've got to chime in. When I installed the 2015 engine in my 05, I apparently lost the stupid spring, and didn't even think about it until I already had the swing arm in. Been running WITHOUT the spring for a few months now, no noticable problems, YET. I did a lot of thought about the purpose of that spring. Shaft slid all the way back, towards the final drive, "good" ? all of the splines being used. BUT would that allow some "wallowing" of the shaft on the front end with the U joint? Doesn't seem to. Time will tell, and I ain't about to rip into it, just for that silly (I hope) spring. :eek:

:oops:o_O:rolleyes:;)
Are you referring to #16 spring? If so, I would think you could reinsert it with needle nose pliers by removing the final drive. You'll already be in there when you go to lube the splines.
 
OK, I've got to chime in. When I installed the 2015 engine in my 05, I apparently lost the stupid spring, and didn't even think about it until I already had the swing arm in. Been running WITHOUT the spring for a few months now, no noticable problems, YET. I did a lot of thought about the purpose of that spring. Shaft slid all the way back, towards the final drive, "good" ? all of the splines being used. BUT would that allow some "wallowing" of the shaft on the front end with the U joint? Doesn't seem to. Time will tell, and I ain't about to rip into it, just for that silly (I hope) spring. :eek:

:oops:o_O:rolleyes:;)
i would install it with the next tire change
drop final drive and install spring
the more forward the better
 
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