My R3 just ate ANOTHER final drive

[Fingers]

The service manager at Daytona is a working mechanic .He seems to know his white.If you call there ask them talk to Huel.

 

[baadactor]

However, there doesn't seem to be any other shops close to me that would handle warranty work on a Triumph, and the next closest Triumph dealership is about 80 miles away

Forgive me in advance, but TWO dealerships within 80 miles? You've hit the Jackpot! My closest dealership is about a hundred miles, and the nearest after that, another 50 miles. ( I don't use them for anything except sitting on new bikes)

 

[SausageCreature]

Payed closer attention tonight and it's definitely coming from the rear wheel or bevel box...not up by the torsional damper. Makes a load click every few degrees of wheel rotation. The clicks seem to be spaced regularly...not random. Still no binding or resistance to turn. At speed (yesterday) it sounded not unlike a baseball card in bicycle spokes...just louder and more expensive.

 

[kcc11]

Payed closer attention tonight and it's definitely coming from the rear wheel or bevel box...not up by the torsional damper. Makes a load click every few degrees of wheel rotation. The clicks seem to be spaced regularly...not random. Still no binding or resistance to turn. At speed (yesterday) it sounded not unlike a baseball card in bicycle spokes...just louder and more expensive.

Have the wheel bearings been checked. My bearings started making noise out of no way one day. I checked everything I could think of and get too. Removed wheel and check cked bearings. They seem fine. Replaced with aftermarket that a friend got locally and all was fine for about 500 miles and the noise came back. Removed wheel again to remove driveshaft (which was new from Triumph) and check it. Found I did not press one bearing all the time way in due to a burr I made when removeing the old ones and missed. Ordered new bearings and seal from Baxter's Triumph and reinstalled. No problem so far and about 4000 miles. I may have miss aligned the differential to swing arm and wheel. The differential nuts need to be snug then the wheel put on and axle nut snugged up. Then torque the diff nuts down then the axle nut. A little play here and there addes up and will put something in a bind. Trying to check bearings with a load on them can be hard to due. They may seem fine but are in fact bad. Get a hold of Technicians stethoscope and try checking with that. You will be surprised what you can hear with it.

 

[Jag]

Remove the drain plug and see if any oil comes out! Maybe they forgot to put oil in?? Probably not but worth a look. The drain plug has a magnet on it.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

Thankfully I don't have this issue and hopefully never will but I really appreciate the pictures and info none the less. Every little bit helps understanding the design and limitations of the Rocket.
Sounds like you nailed the problem right on the head. Thanks for posting and good luck too SausageCreature. Don't give up, these are awesome bikes!

THE older ROCKETS had some issues and they have an update kit that takes care of the problem

Payed closer attention tonight and it's definitely coming from the rear wheel or bevel box...not up by the torsional damper. Makes a load click every few degrees of wheel rotation. The clicks seem to be spaced regularly...not random. Still no binding or resistance to turn. At speed (yesterday) it sounded not unlike a baseball card in bicycle spokes...just louder and more expensive.

Doesnt make sense What did the dealer tell you they did to repair the bike did they install a new final drive ?

 

[TURBO200R4]

Remove the drain plug and see if any oil comes out! Maybe they forgot to put oil in?? Probably not but worth a look. The drain plug has a magnet on it.

USE THE MANUAL TORQUE BECAUSE THEY BREAK VERY EASY. SORRY CAPS
also very small amount of oil comes out.

 

[TURBO200R4]

i would call the other shop to see if they can accept the gauranty
i can understand them misdiagnose the problem. maybe they will be more careful the next time.
if i were working on this bike this is what i would do.
#1 check oil in diff (metal on magnet) if ok
#2 pull engine cover (like warp said) if ok
#3 pull wheel & final drive. with channel lock pliers rotate back and forth and around in a small circle to check drive shaft u joint for wear and binding.
if i did not find anything i would replace wheel bearings and test.
i supose that u could make a plate of aluminum with a large hole in the midle and test while running. u would have to hold the shaft in with a center punch.

ps if u can get the old final drive for your problems that would be a plus.

 

[IMFASTTOO]

i would call the other shop to see if they can accept the gauranty
i can understand them misdiagnose the problem. maybe they will be more careful the next time.
if i were working on this bike this is what i would do.
#1 check oil in diff (metal on magnet) if ok
#2 pull engine cover (like warp said) if ok
#3 pull wheel & final drive. with channel lock pliers rotate back and forth and around in a small circle to check drive shaft u joint for wear and binding.
if i did not find anything i would replace wheel bearings and test.
i supose that u could make a plate of aluminum with a large hole in the midle and test while running. u would have to hold the shaft in with a center punch.

ps if u can get the old final drive for your problems that would be a plus.

I suggest you dont take anything apart or they will be blaming you for something its up to them to FIX the bike you have a warranty so use it You check the oil in the rear but i wouldnt give them an excuse to blame you for the problem

 

[TURBO200R4]

I suggest you dont take anything apart or they will be blaming you for something its up to them to FIX the bike you have a warranty so use it You check the oil in the rear but i wouldnt give them an excuse to blame you for the problem

THANK U
i did not mean that anyone should do this (this would take a good mechanic) i just meant that a good mechanic should do this before guessing.