My Experience Using A Seal Mate

I picked up a bike that sat for 4 years and a lot of fluid leaked out after I got it running and took it around the block.
I tried the Seal tool method (made my own) and a lot of fluid came out of the left side but not so much on the right which leads me to believe there isn't much in there.

It seems the tool worked!, but as Mittzy asked, is there no way to add fluid without special tools or rebuilding???

Someone that has been inside these forks please help me out - All I want to do is replace the fork seals. Looking at the service manual, is it possible to simply remove the bolt at the bottom of fork (visible when you remove the axle) and lift the cartridge and spring assembly out of the fork in it's entirety without having to disassemble the cartridge and spring? It appears that by doing this you can separate the inner and outer fork and have access to the seals. Highlighted bolt below.



Thanks,
Ted

Kevdog said:

is there no way to add fluid without special tools or rebuilding???

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I haven't done it before, but I'm pretty sure you can pull the top caps off the forks and could add oil. Problem is, this is usually a horrible idea. Unless the forks are severely low or uneven, you have a better chance of doing more harm than good. The forks need to have the same amount of oil, and they have to be filled to a precise distance from the top, or the air gap will be off, which can significantly affect the behavior of the forks.

Ted Biggie said:

Someone that has been inside these forks please help me out - All I want to do is replace the fork seals. Looking at the service manual, is it possible to simply remove the bolt at the bottom of fork (visible when you remove the axle) and lift the cartridge and spring assembly out of the fork in it's entirety without having to disassemble the cartridge and spring? It appears that by doing this you can separate the inner and outer fork and have access to the seals. Highlighted bolt below.



Thanks,
Ted

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I'm sure someone will be along to reply with experience, but in the meantime if you want to do more searching, there are quite a few threads discussing this. From what I remember reading, basically it's possible to do anything you'd want with the forks still on the bike. It will work, but you reach a point of diminishing returns where it would've been easier to just remove them.

Ted Biggie said:

Someone that has been inside these forks please help me out - All I want to do is replace the fork seals. Looking at the service manual, is it possible to simply remove the bolt at the bottom of fork (visible when you remove the axle) and lift the cartridge and spring assembly out of the fork in it's entirety without having to disassemble the cartridge and spring? It appears that by doing this you can separate the inner and outer fork and have access to the seals. Highlighted bolt below.



Thanks,
Ted

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i did that some time back and somewhere it is on a thread.
from memory u need an impact to remove and replace the bolt because the upper part will turn while using a wrench. i adapted a smaller extension to cut back on torque. also i measured the oil that came out so as to compare what i was putting back. if u leave the springs alone u cannot measure the oil in the forks u have to use a quantity amount. so be sure to pump all the oil out of the forks.
my fork started leaking after a hard brake apply. i would guess that it had to much oil from factory and rolled over the seal so that plastic might have worked on mine.
when u fill a container with the right amount of oil it will surprise u what a small amount is in there.
i will try to keep an eye on your progress.
ps u will need the front extra high so u can remove the tubes. i remember that one of mine came out real fast so be prepared.

If you could remove the bolt at the bottom of the forks , you would lose all the oil anyway ! This is speculation tho as you would not be able to remove that bolt without holding the damper unit inside the fork that it screws in to . You would not be able to adjust oil level just by undoing the fork top caps as the caps are fixed to the top of the damper rods and have the spacer tube and springs seated in them , so no way to measure . Not to mention the fact that the oil level and air gap needs setting with the spring and spacer out of the fork tube !
Honestly tho , servicing the forks is an easy job to do , but it needs doing properly with the forks off the bike , same goes with the fork seals . The process is described in the manual and should be followed religiously. !
There are many threads here with accompanying pics if you search .

Nat67 said:

You would not be able to adjust oil level just by undoing the fork top caps as the caps are fixed to the top of the damper rods and have the spacer tube and springs seated in them , so no way to measure . Not to mention the fact that the oil level and air gap needs setting with the spring and spacer out of the fork tube !

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That's what I was getting at with not being able to measure… technically you could add oil, unmeasured, which would be a horrible idea. I was guessing that strictly speaking, you could add oil. Just don't.

Nat67 said:

Honestly tho , servicing the forks is an easy job to do , but it needs doing properly with the forks off the bike , same goes with the fork seals . The process is described in the manual and should be followed religiously. !

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I don't understand the appeal of trying to service the forks on the bike. Enough people do/try that I guess there's a reason. I just don't know what it is.

I should have been clearer. I intend to remove the fork from the bike. If I can remove the damper from the fork by simply removing the bolt, and then drain all the oil and replace with the measured amount of oil upon reassembly, I could avoid having to disassemble the fork with tools I don't currently have.

Ted Biggie said:

I should have been clearer. I intend to remove the fork from the bike. If I can remove the damper from the fork by simply removing the bolt, and then drain all the oil and replace with the measured amount of oil upon reassembly, I could avoid having to disassemble the fork with tools I don't currently have.

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Ok I think I get it… your only goal is to change the seal, NOT fully change all the oil (because you have to remove the spring to pump the rod to be sure ALL the old oil is drained), though you'll change most of it.

So the problem you'll have is keeping the rod from spinning when trying to remove the bottom bolt. With the manual procedure, you'd have removed the spring, and used tool 3990090-T0301 to grip the rod and keep it from turning while you remove the bolt. Trying to avoid that, the question is what do you grip to keep the rod from spinning? Anything that's part of the top fixture of the rod risks unscrewing that and releasing the spring tension uncontrolled. The only solution I can remember is like Turbo said, some people have had success using an impact wrench.

But if you find another way that works, by all means let us know! You may get an answer from someone who has done it, but I think you're venturing into new territory. Not many people go through the trouble of tearing down the forks without going all the way. Most people either buy/make the usual tools, or improvise with ratchet straps, etc.

Speedy said:

This method is fast compared to the book method. However, be aware that once the bottom bolt is loosened even a little it must either come all the way out or go back in using the air impact tool. If you run into a problem with the cartridge spinning with the bolt still engaged you will have to resort to the book method and use a suitable tool to engage the top of the cartridge to hold it from rotating while removing and tightening the lower bolt.

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Was browsing some of the other threads I had read, and this stood out. Just be aware, it's a risk. Without a suitable tool, you could end up with the bolt partly removed, the rod spinning, and no good way to get it all the way out or all the way back in.