Model/Year Performance Mods

Huntin Dawg

.060 Over
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Messages
102
Location
Ohio
Ride
2012 R3R; 2009 Victory Vision Tour (Double Darkside)
I see a lot of great "this is what worked for me" advice from members that have different models and years so here's my "novice" question. Are the mods really as universal as I'm seeing? I've got a 2012 Roadster. I had the dealer put on TORS & the associated Triumph tune. I haven't even taken it for a ride yet because of the Ohio winter weather :( but I don't like the idea of restrictions in the lower gears. What's the simplest Roadster specific mod to remove the restrictions or did the Tors-Tune already do that???? Sorry if this has been covered, I just couldn't find a Roadster specific thread.....if that even matters :)
 
I removed the secondary butterflies manually ( with a screwdriver) while i was replacing camchain .. then had it dyno tuned.
 
I'm looking for something to do in the garage this winter, but I might just ride it stock for an oil change or two before I have at it. Since I said goodbye to carbs, I've had a Suzuki DL-1000 V-Strom (made a resistor mod to fool the ECU), a Yamaha Roadliner (store bought Cobra Fi-2000 to get past the restrictions), and I still have my Victory Vision (Lloydz motor work, Ness Big Shot, and double darkside to eat Harleys). I guess I just prefer wrist control over computer control! I want to feel the same power in every gear without a computer screwing with things!!!

I'm not really looking to add HP/Torque. I just want to get the full stock potential throughout the gears and tach.
 
Welcome to the forum and the "never ending" modification addiction! I have an 011 R3T. I have installed D&D slip ons, PCV with A/T, opened up the bottom of my air box and have physically removed my secondaries. I tried the K&N air filter, but found no "seat of the pants" power difference. So I'm back to the stock air filter, as I ride in dusty areas. I can tell you from stock form the bike is a way different animal now!

As for getting full timing in the first three gears, if it floats your boat, go for it. But, like most here know, I like to get it on on the street and can not resist a challenge to race. That said, I still see no need to get into fooling the ECU to get rid of the timing retard in the first three gears. I can spank most bikes I come up against, including any and all Harley's that want to play. Can I do more and make more HP, of course. But for me the bikes just fine now.;)

I forgot to add, I also installed the Western Beaver head light relay kit. THAT should be the first thing you do seeing as how you have the roadster with dual headlights. Just ask Dan Diego about burnt up ignition switches. You don't want to go there!
 
The eastern Beaver relay kit is a definet good idea. Put her on a trailer and head south and ride her so you can get used to her. There is plenty of time to do mods if you decide to later since you spent the money on the TORS and tune you might as well get some use out of it before you start changing it. Once you go down that road its hard to stop. She will be pretty spunky as it is, with the software tuning aids out there you can spunk her up by just flasing the ecu with another map. After your used to her and feel like you got your money out of the TORS then you can start down the road of more power. Just my opinion bud but you will find yourself changing them pipes as they will be holding you back when it comes to more power. This is why I say ride her like you have her first so you can get the pipe money out of her.

ANyway Welcome and enjoy your wife can reccomend a cream to help with the stretch marks on your face from grinning to much:D
 
Warp has given great advice here IMHO.
I did this to my 2012 R3R and put 500 miles on first - changed to the full syn oil then called on HansO. :D
TORS with trip filters, PCV + AT running on HansO tune with free Tune ECU is the BOMB!
Low cost and BIG performance improvement . . . not that the beast needs one; but, more of a good thing is the way to go.

Now after 7K miles, I'm wishing I lived in the east instead of the west - close to NJ. :eek:

Welcome to the most helpful group of motor addicts anywhere!
I have been on a few of these motor forums over the years and this one is BY FAR the best of all.
Regards,
1olbull
 
You can remove the restriction in 1-3 with Tune ECU or with GIPro. I used the latter and like that I also like the gear indicator. Of course the Roadster has a gear indicator already but I presume that if you trick the ECU into thinking you're in 4th or 5th all the time then you could also mess with the stock indicator.????? I'm not sure though - maybe someone with a Roadster can clarify.
 
You can remove the restriction in 1-3 with Tune ECU or with GIPro. I used the latter and like that I also like the gear indicator. Of course the Roadster has a gear indicator already but I presume that if you trick the ECU into thinking you're in 4th or 5th all the time then you could also mess with the stock indicator.????? I'm not sure though - maybe someone with a Roadster can clarify.

Canberra,
I be not the sharpest tool in the box; so, I assume you are talking ignition timing here when referring to "restriction in 1-3". Many with V2Ks did this with resister mods that "fooled" the ECU. It worked much better on the first 2004 models than on the later ones due to factory induced ECU restrictions in subsequent models.

Now you have me all curious about doing this with Tune ECU.
Hopefully HansO or another Guru shall chime in.
Regards,
1olbull
 
Thanks for the advice! I'll get the relay for sure. I think 1olbull's approach seems like my style. I know better than to start an oil debate, so please send me a private message on the synthetic that works for you! If the weather breaks, I should have enough miles on by the Louie Run in at the beginning of May.
 
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