Matching Fuse Amperage to Accessory

I think you're right Rayvin. The other factor might be the load from the lights itself which may be more than the PC8 can handle. I believe (I could be wrong) that the load from the headlight relay is up to 20 amps which might overwhelm the limit for the PC8. Either way - I also just read the instructions on the Eastern Beaver website which states that the headlight relay should go directly to the battery itself so that's what I'll do. Thanks.

nitebell said:

Redundancy is our friend. The relay on our stock light switch is to turn off the lights when starting the motor. The load on the stock ignition switch contacts for the light circuit is a weak design and will leave you high and dry. The H4 kit takes the load from the ignition switch and moves that load to the relays of the H-4 circuit. By only using contacts in the ignition switch to power the magnets in the H-4 kit relays, not the headlights. The contacts in the ignition switch should last forever after the H-4 is installed. Hope we are talking about the same thing.

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I think you misunderstood me, nitebell, but that we're in agreement on the value of the H4 relay in saving our ignition switch. I just saw no reason to run the H4 harness/relay through another relay (the PC8 relay), which Johnny would be doing if he ran it on a switched connection on the PC8. I've got the H4 kit from Eastern Beaver and love it, especially for brightening up the road for me.

JohnnyCanuck said:

I think you're right Rayvin. The other factor might be the load from the lights itself which may be more than the PC8 can handle. I believe (I could be wrong) that the load from the headlight relay is up to 20 amps which might overwhelm the limit for the PC8. Either way - I also just read the instructions on the Eastern Beaver website which states that the headlight relay should go directly to the battery itself so that's what I'll do. Thanks.

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Glad to help JohnnyC. Overloading the PC8 is an even better reason to run it straight to the battery than redundancy.

JohnnyCanuck said:

I think you're right Rayvin. The other factor might be the load from the lights itself which may be more than the PC8 can handle. I believe (I could be wrong) that the load from the headlight relay is up to 20 amps which might overwhelm the limit for the PC8. Either way - I also just read the instructions on the Eastern Beaver website which states that the headlight relay should go directly to the battery itself so that's what I'll do. Thanks.

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If I'm not mistaken (which unfortunately is more often than I would prefer), the EB site says to not run the HORN relay kit through the PC-8. The H4 kit, however, is offered with the unfused ends so that it can be connected to the PC-8. The PC-8 has a 30 amp relay so as long as you don't overload the total load on the fuse block, you should be ok running the H4 kit through the PC-8. I've had mine connected to the PC-8 for quite some time now with no problems.

I agree that the ultimate install would be for the H4 to go directly to the battery. However, the PC-8 option is still valid as long as you keep the total load in mind. And, if you are really concerned about the total load, you can get the PC-8 in a 50 amp version.