Lube the splines...

[mo8414]

I went off looking for possible replacement studs (T3201277) and I noticed the cap nut wasn't on the list of parts. I then find out the triumph stud comes complete with the cap nut chemically stuck onto the end of the stud. And apparently you just wind the new stud in like a bolt.

So, sounds like if the studs back out, just clean 'em and re-lok tite them and wind 'em back in, no need to get the cap nut off. Might make things a bit easier for the next guy. Has anyone actually brought the triumph studs and is able to confirm whey do indeed come with the cap nut chemically locked on already?

I don't think it comes with the nut since its not listed as coming with the nut and when you look up the diagram for the stud, it never shows the nut in the same diagram.

Also the instructions for reassembly tells you to install new nuts onto the studs after placing the bevel box on the studs.

This is the part # for the nut T3350334

​

 

[Kiwicol]

I was told the part number T3201277 is a Stud: M12 ENC SLV. The ENC part stands for encapsulated and the SLV stands for Silver. I'll have to order some and see what turns up.

 

[Rick111]

I was told the part number T3201277 is a Stud: M12 ENC SLV. The ENC part stands for encapsulated and the SLV stands for Silver. I'll have to order some and see what turns up.

Report back please .Happy motoring .

 

[Gerald]

Report back please .Happy motoring .

I would feel better double locking regular nuts on studs that were locktited and installed in housing with correct torque, then removing regular nuts and replacing with nylock nuts.

 

[Kiwicol]

Haven't taken the bike for a proper test yet, maybe tomorrow, but there's a correction from yesterdays 'advice' re stud and cap.

Well, consider me schooled! I backed that explanation because I was relying on an AI breakdown of the Triumph part numbers, and the **** thing completely hallucinated a fake mechanical description. It twisted the common issue of the factory nuts backing the studs out into a bizarre 'pre-fused assembly' theory. You guys were 100% right—it's just a bare stud. Lesson learned on trusting the robot for parts logic!

Nyloc nuts sound the part! Maybe I'll give them a try . . .

 

[mo8414]

Haven't taken the bike for a proper test yet, maybe tomorrow, but there's a correction from yesterdays 'advice' re stud and cap.

Well, consider me schooled! I backed that explanation because I was relying on an AI breakdown of the Triumph part numbers, and the **** thing completely hallucinated a fake mechanical description. It twisted the common issue of the factory nuts backing the studs out into a bizarre 'pre-fused assembly' theory. You guys were 100% right—it's just a bare stud. Lesson learned on trusting the robot for parts logic!

Nyloc nuts sound the part! Maybe I'll give them a try . . .

Yea the AI generated answer to most questions is wrong in some way. I've had it tell me the spindle nuts on my f250 should be torqued to 250 ft/lbs when its more like 23 ft/lbs lol.

The AI should show all of its references at the bottom so you can see where it is getting its information. you will see a lot of times its pulling information from a general topic rather than the specific topic.

 

[imcool]

Yea the AI generated answer to most questions is wrong in some way. I've had it tell me the spindle nuts on my f250 should be torqued to 250 ft/lbs when its more like 23 ft/lbs lol.

The AI should show all of its references at the bottom so you can see where it is getting its information. you will see a lot of times its pulling information from a general topic rather than the specific topic.

 

[Kiwicol]

That mushroom one above is exactly how it is.