When moving the joint on one axis, the shaft end wants to "settle" into one position, not falling
to the downward position. Maybe "notchy" is better? Don't know how to describe any other way.
Do have the "roughness" when accelerating from stop at low speed. It smooths out once above
30mph(?). It's fine above 30.
It might be I'm expecting it to be silky smooth at all speeds. When first considering a Rocket, I test
drove a new one at the dealership for a couple miles. I was in love with the Rocket after that.
However, I was surprised to notice a little roughness on pulling away from stop. Again, I was expecting super
smooth. After experiencing that on a new one, I ignored the "roughness" on mine to being the "nature of the beast".
As you'd expect, with 27K miles, the roughness is more exaggerated then the new one was.
After finding the "notchy" U-joint, I'm now wondering if mine has more of a problem? I might be overthinking this.
It's so subjective
I gotcha ya. I'll check mine when I change that tire, pretty soon.

Hmmm- not sure about the roughness you're mentioning. At first I'm wondering if it's the clutch (search clutch judders), but when that happens, not always, it goes away well before you hit 30 mph.

It's been so long ago that I don't remember how it ran before I did the Penner Tune, but that definitely opens up the bike, including the lower revs. The stock tune seems to be designed to prevent the less experienced from throwing all that torque at the bike early and losing control. With the Penner tune you are much more mindful of throttle use at lower speeds, as it can be a bit "snatchy." I wonder if you used his tune if that would take care of what you're describing. In any event, those of us who have it installed would never go back to the original tune. As I said somewhere before, with his tune you'll have the Rocket 3 you thought you were buying....
 
Just a quick and probably stupid question. How much grease is too much on the splines when removing and re-inserting the rear wheel after a tyre change. The grease on the splines looks ok (Triumph must have done it 4k miles ago at the 20k service). Do I attempt to clean all that off, and then paste new moly all over the splines on both the male and female splines? I notice that a lot of the grease that triumph applied has been pushed beyond the splines as the wheel must have been re-inserted last time.
Mike
Hi Mike- there are no stupid questions. First, I seriously, seriously, doubt your dealership lubed those splines, as it's not part of the regular service and goes way beyond the usual process of removing the rear wheel. But, if yours looks that good at 20K- that's good!

Yes, remove that grease and reapply. I'd cover it with a good thin to medium layer on both surfaces. Too much will just get squeezed into where the spring is located and make a bit of a mess- no big deal. You really just need enough to uniformly cover both surfaces.
 
I gave a brief thought to same thing when first applying the grease. My inclination was to load it up after seeing mine was so dry. Quickly realized too much would be a waste in that it would simply make a real mess by throwing it onto the surrounding surfaces. I ended up making sure the flutes were fully filled. What I mean by that is, when first applied, I noticed while pushing the grease into the flutes, there were air voids. Just kept applying until all air gaps were gone. Of course, when you insert, a lot of the grease would be pushed out of the flutes ending up being thrown against the inner surfaces anyway. I accept this knowing the splines are well covered.
 
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I gotcha ya. I'll check mine when I change that tire, pretty soon.

Hmmm- not sure about the roughness you're mentioning. At first I'm wondering if it's the clutch (search clutch judders), but when that happens, not always, it goes away well before you hit 30 mph.

It's been so long ago that I don't remember how it ran before I did the Penner Tune, but that definitely opens up the bike, including the lower revs. The stock tune seems to be designed to prevent the less experienced from throwing all that torque at the bike early and losing control. With the Penner tune you are much more mindful of throttle use at lower speeds, as it can be a bit "snatchy." I wonder if you used his tune if that would take care of what you're describing. In any event, those of us who have it installed would never go back to the original tune. As I said somewhere before, with his tune you'll have the Rocket 3 you thought you were buying....
Journeyman,
Your mentioning the Penner tune made me think more about loading it onto my bike. Last winter, I purchased and loaded all the necessary
bits and pieces to do it, but ran out of courage. I have a buddy who has performed several ECU changes on his cars. I have asked him to coach
and give me moral support on this. My main fear is having to go back to the Triumph dealer and pay $$$$ to have them shake their head at me.

* My buddy suggested downloading the original map to have as backup. I'll look into that, but wondering if anybody out there has the VIN matched
MAP for this bike already. The bike is stock, as far as the MAP goes.
* He asked if there's a expiration on the MAP (1 year, etc). I told him no, but have to ask the question. You've been running that tune for years. Right?

You don't need to go over the operation as I have hooked it up, connected and ready to hit the GO button. I have read all the cautions, etc.

Thanks, Larry
 
Journeyman,
Your mentioning the Penner tune made me think more about loading it onto my bike. Last winter, I purchased and loaded all the necessary
bits and pieces to do it, but ran out of courage. I have a buddy who has performed several ECU changes on his cars. I have asked him to coach
and give me moral support on this. My main fear is having to go back to the Triumph dealer and pay $$$$ to have them shake their head at me.

* My buddy suggested downloading the original map to have as backup. I'll look into that, but wondering if anybody out there has the VIN matched
MAP for this bike already. The bike is stock, as far as the MAP goes.
* He asked if there's a expiration on the MAP (1 year, etc). I told him no, but have to ask the question. You've been running that tune for years. Right?

You don't need to go over the operation as I have hooked it up, connected and ready to hit the GO button. I have read all the cautions, etc.

Thanks, Larry
Hi Larry- yes, I've had if for years. Mr @Penner gifted us this huge improvement and can't thank him enough. You will feel a very real difference.

It's good you have someone familiar with the process. I admit that it's a little intimidating. Enough that I wouldn't attempt to advise anyone on the process, but I did manage to get it loaded on mine. Just to backup what you already know, be sure to have a fully charged battery on a charger and remove the headlight fuse, in addition to the right OBDLink scanner tool. I have the less expensive LX model, which worked fine.
 
Hi Larry- yes, I've had if for years. Mr @Penner gifted us this huge improvement and can't thank him enough. You will feel a very real difference.

It's good you have someone familiar with the process. I admit that it's a little intimidating. Enough that I wouldn't attempt to advise anyone on the process, but I did manage to get it loaded on mine. Just to backup what you already know, be sure to have a fully charged battery on a charger and remove the headlight fuse, in addition to the right OBDLink scanner tool. I have the less expensive LX model, which worked fine.
Do you have a backup copy of the original MAP?
 
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