If the download is not completed, you can disassemble and reassemble the entire motorcycle, this will not help. Take a laptop with Windows, Tuneecu, Lonelec cable, battery charger, DO NOT PULL OUT THE FUSE ON THE HEADLIGHTS (in certain cases Tuneecu does not connect), download the map and only after that the ECU will control the engine as it should, spark and fuel in time.
So specifically a windows version? I was in the middle of a download of the map onto an android device when it all went tits up and dropped the connection, it wouldn't connect again afterwards.
Due to numerous requests for an older version of TuneECU than 2.5.8 etc, I've posted this up on my Google Drive for download. Zip file includes the cable drivers that were current at the time of 2.5.5 (around 2012). DOWNLOAD LINK
I have experience when loading a map from Tuneecu to the Triumph Speedmaster is interrupted. The bike wouldn't start. The computer was connected to the ECU from the third or fourth time. I have nothing against the Android version of Tuneecu, but in my opinion it is too capricious with the 2300 Rockets.
I have experience when loading a map from Tuneecu to the Triumph Speedmaster is interrupted. The bike wouldn't start. The computer was connected to the ECU from the third or fourth time. I have nothing against the Android version of Tuneecu, but in my opinion it is too capricious with the 2300 Rockets.
Ok, I tried with a laptop and the previous cable, still no connection. I had a really good look at the wiring diagram today, am I right in thinking that the ECM relay supplies the fuel pump relay and fan relay when energised? If so, then should they not all click together when the ignition is on? Currently I'm only getting the ECM relay activating but as yet I have not confirmed that there is current passing to the other relays from it. Also I think there has been some bodgery going on in the last 22 years.
when using tuneecu make sure that the ign and kill switch is in the run position b4 trying to connect tuneecu
looks like someone has added two extra relays maybe for to take the lights out of the ignition circuit. with one relay missing.
when you have the ignition on all of the check lights should work even w/o a ecu hooked up if working proper
when ignition is turned on then fuel pump should run for about two seconds then go silent. this is not the first time we have seen the ecu not let the bike start when download has failed.
safety's like clutch switch,starter button, green neutral light needs to be lit for ecu to ground the starter relay ground wire.
if you ground the starter relay the motor should crank (dangerous if in gear)
Ok, update (more for me than anything) clutch switch is fine, the earth wire going to it has continuity to the frame, so all good there. The sidestand switch is confusing me, all the diagrams have it as 2 wire, black and black/red, but mine is 3 wire, green, black and orangey brown. The orange/brown has frame continuity so I'll assume that's earth. With the sidestand down there's continuity between black and green, with it up it's black and orangey brown. No cont between black and frame or green and frame.
According to my diagram you are describing the diagnostic connector. The sidestand switch gets power from the red/black and black is ground. Item 33 (diagnostic connector) gets power from fuse 4 thru the orange wire according to my schematic. I had a 98 1200 Trophy that wouldn't start and the problem was the neutral switch. The bike wouldn't start with the kickstand down but would start with the kickstand up. The problem was the power feed wire to the neutral switch was broken. Once I connected the broken ends together I got a neutral light, and the bike would start kickstand up or down in neutral. With that wire broken there was no electrical signal the bike tranny was disengaged so the system would only allow starts under 'in gear' conditions.
Yup, wiring diagram would suggest it's the diagnostics plug, but I have the ss switch here with me and there are 3 wires poking out. I'm not even getting the servo whirr on startup, or the fuel pump priming. Meh.
for your info if you have the green light and it is on it does not matter if the kick stand is down or up or whether the switch works or not.
for your info the fuel pump only runs about 2 seconds when you first turn on the ignition to the run position.
a funnel in the tank lets you hear the pump better.
if the pump does not run for 2 seconds then you need to start checking power right at the fuses and the engine management relay.
if you want to do google meet and then you can show me what's going on and i can tell you what to do.
520 six four nine 1342
Have you checked the ignition barrel switch? The 2004 to 2010 models have the headlight power routed thru the key switch barrel and over time desolder the contacts. The fix is to resolder the contacts then bypass the ignition barrel with an Eastern Beaver headlight relay (or similar) kit. If that's all good, then the relays are the next point of issue.