Just bought a 2005 R3 in February 2015, now its broke...ignition switch?

Hi All,

This ignition switch forum brought me here. Just bought a 2005 R3 in February 2015, now its broke...ignition switch problem?
I was just getting her out for a ride yesterday after being garaged for a month and half while I was away overseas for work. Started fine, but then kept cutting out when I tried to drive. After messing around I noticed power was going on and off while moving the handle bars. I also noted from the time I bought it the handle bar lock didn't work and couldn't get the mechanism to push in or turn it to the parking mode... at the time I din't really care about this. Only now it drew my attention that something maybe going on there. So I see that similar symptoms were posted here. I wanted to find out more on the fix and what this Eastern Beaver H4 wire harness thing is all about? Why was that a fix? It wasn't well explained in the threads.
I want this to be a good bike! I rode a 1983 Honda Magna V65 for 10 years; it had so issues of its own, but this is kind of ridiculous for a bike I just bought from a dealer. I paid $2,000 for a v65 that rode strong and hard for 10 years. Here I am thinking I upgraded to Triumph paid $6,500 and there it sits broke as the other.

Thank you!
Adam

Yep, that's exactly your problem from the symptoms you've explained. Exact same on my 07. To put it succinctly, without the EB there's too much heat running through the ignition because the headlights were wired through the ignition. The EB puts them on separate relays providing a) more light, and b) reducing the heat so your ignition wire isn't melted off the cylinder.
I pried the ignition cylinder out and sure enough the solder had melted away and the connection was barely hanging on; the reason for the symptom of off and on with moves of the handlebars. Re-soldered it, put it back together, put the EB in and good to go! I had already ordered the EB so timing was good for a break
Perhaps your easiest/cheapest option is to go with the DeCosse keyless setup (pm him) and you kill both birds with one stone and about a third of the time!

The cheap and easy way is to go with a wireless remote.

http://www.r3owners.net/threads/keyless-ignition-mod-how-to-with-pics.9139/

First of all, g'day and welcome.

With the OEM wiring there is too much current going through the ignition switch and it melts the solder at one of the connections. This can be easily repaired by pulling the ignition switch apart and re-soldering the bad joint. However, you will have to remove two tamper-proof screws to get to the important bits. Some people have used dremel tools to do this, I can't remember how I did mine it was so long ago. Replace them with standard metric bolts or screws, which you can probably get from Home Depot.

If you do not install the EB kit, or something similar, then the problem will return. The EB kit takes the headlight current away from the ignition switch, giving you brighter headlights and no switch problems.

The keyless ignition link above will show you a couple of ways of bypassing the need for the ignition switch altogether. They won't make the bike run any better, but they are way cool, and you don't have to mess about trying to get the key in the little hole.

cardinal93 said:

Yep, that's exactly your problem from the symptoms you've explained. Exact same on my 07. To put it succinctly, without the EB there's too much heat running through the ignition because the headlights were wired through the ignition. The EB puts them on separate relays providing a) more light, and b) reducing the heat so your ignition wire isn't melted off the cylinder.
I pried the ignition cylinder out and sure enough the solder had melted away and the connection was barely hanging on; the reason for the symptom of off and on with moves of the handlebars. Re-soldered it, put it back together, put the EB in and good to go! I had already ordered the EB so timing was good for a break
Perhaps your easiest/cheapest option is to go with the DeCosse keyless setup (pm him) and you kill both birds with one stone and about a third of the time!

Click to expand...

Thanks for confirming my suspicions, I hadn't really looked at a wiring diagram to understand that, but it make sense. New ignition set is $180 plus time for order and deliver... I might try my hand at resolding it = worst case I buy a new one. Only problem is the handle bar lock over function is not working either, but I may discover it is just jammed by solder. the other thing about this ignition assembly is it looks not made to take apart (cheap.) I guess going with the keyless start you loose the handlebar lock over functionality or this is in addition to normal keyed start? Also you still have to do the H4 Easter Beaver head light kit to separate the circuit right?

Steel said:

The cheap and easy way is to go with a wireless remote.

http://www.r3owners.net/threads/keyless-ignition-mod-how-to-with-pics.9139/

Click to expand...

Thanks! I guess chicks would dig remote start or at least easier than re-solder or ordering stuff. Did you still have to go with the headlight relay kit from eastern beaver?

idk said:

First of all, g'day and welcome.

With the OEM wiring there is too much current going through the ignition switch and it melts the solder at one of the connections. This can be easily repaired by pulling the ignition switch apart and re-soldering the bad joint. However, you will have to remove two tamper-proof screws to get to the important bits. Some people have used dremel tools to do this, I can't remember how I did mine it was so long ago. Replace them with standard metric bolts or screws, which you can probably get from Home Depot.

If you do not install the EB kit, or something similar, then the problem will return. The EB kit takes the headlight current away from the ignition switch, giving you brighter headlights and no switch problems.

The keyless ignition link above will show you a couple of ways of bypassing the need for the ignition switch altogether. They won't make the bike run any better, but they are way cool, and you don't have to mess about trying to get the key in the little hole.

Click to expand...

Yes exactly what I was wondering about with those two stupid screw heads (how the hell did they get those in there?) I'll consider the remote start as well, sounds like people like it

idk said:

First of all, g'day and welcome.

With the OEM wiring there is too much current going through the ignition switch and it melts the solder at one of the connections. This can be easily repaired by pulling the ignition switch apart and re-soldering the bad joint. However, you will have to remove two tamper-proof screws to get to the important bits. Some people have used dremel tools to do this, I can't remember how I did mine it was so long ago. Replace them with standard metric bolts or screws, which you can probably get from Home Depot.

If you do not install the EB kit, or something similar, then the problem will return. The EB kit takes the headlight current away from the ignition switch, giving you brighter headlights and no switch problems.

The keyless ignition link above will show you a couple of ways of bypassing the need for the ignition switch altogether. They won't make the bike run any better, but they are way cool, and you don't have to mess about trying to get the key in the little hole.

Click to expand...

Oh my score on the manual!!! Thank you so much. Its so obvious in the wiring diagram now

Those screws are made that way for a reason. The ignition cylinder is installed with the intention of keeping someone from stealing your bike. However, I did pry mine apart at the bottom (very patiently without breaking anything) so the original anti theft screws are still in place.
DeCosse can customize your setup. If you don't have the EB, he has one kit, that completes the same intention. HIs kits are made to be in parallel or bypassing your keyed ignition. In your case, you could go with either. Then if you get the cylinder out and soldered you have an option and if not, you can still start and have a new power port/cigarette lighter location

Hello Adam and welcome from VA. it looks your answers are above, I hope it works out well for you brother.