Ignition switch failure/ headlight relay kit

RKTNMYPKT

Village Idiot
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2021 HD RoadGlide
I've decided to be a bit proactive and try to eliminate any ignition switch failures before they happen.

I'm sure you guys have got to be tired of answering the same questions over and over......... But I just want to make sure I do it right the first time so here goes it.

These are the facts as I see them

It's the key switch that fails right?

Putting in the headlight relay kit will bypass the ignition switch therefore putting less load on the switch

Should I change out the ignition switch at the same time?

Do I need to change the wiring harness as well?

Is the cold solder joint I've been hearing about in the switch or the harness?

In the new switches/harness is this cold solder joint still an issue?

I assume theres a different relay kit for the tourings single headlight?

Have I missed anything?

Jim
 
Watching this thread with interest as I too want to be proactive and fix possible problems before they occur, but I have confused myself (too much time online daydreaming I suspect) as to which Eastern Beaver kit I need for my 06 Classic twin light R3.

The Kiwi.
 
I installed the Eastern Beaver H4 Single Headlight Relay kit. It is a plug and play installation and the relay fits easily in the R3T headlight shell.
 
GPMAZ said:
I installed the Eastern Beaver H4 Single Headlight Relay kit. It is a plug and play installation and the relay fits easily in the R3T headlight shell.
Click to expand...


same here mounted the EB H4 with cutout switch on a 2006 standard coupled to a PC8 from EB as well plug ad play indeed
 
The kit has improved since I installed one, they are more tailored to the R3 and it's special needs. The Touring kit does fit nicely into the larger single headlight bucket but EB makes a longer harness kit for the Standard and Classics that puts the relays under the tank. Your other choices in kit configuration is whether or not you want a cut out switch, I suggest the low beam cut out option just so that you can totally turn off the lights when needed. This might be for when the battery is low, or the bike is cold and extra cranking power is needed and not wasted on powering the lights between cranks. I sometimes ride with them off just to charge the battery faster. If you can replace a headlight bulb or have added an accessory to your bike, you can do this modification. The most common installation question is "why are there only two wires from the headlight and the plug has three?" Answer>> only two are needed to energize the relays. Get past that and you are home free.
 
There is a new job for you. Traveling mods. Come start on mine. I will feed you well and pay for the work.
 
nolton said:
There is a new job for you. Traveling mods. Come start on mine. I will feed you well and pay for the work.
Click to expand...

If I had known that when I was auditing Waterford's ILO class I would have stopped over to do the work (and get fed).
 
atomsplitter said:
If I had known that when I was auditing Waterford's ILO class I would have stopped over to do the work (and get fed).
Click to expand...
Any time your down this way I will make sure you eat real good. That goes for the rest of you guys too. Just one or two at a time. I cant feed a bus load at once.
Late Feb. to early May is crawfish season.
What we lack in good roads we make up for it with good food.
 
Well for the dumb question of the day. Does this relay circuit for the headlights have a direct feed off of the battery so that headline power does not run through the switch at all helping to keep switch cool ?
 
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