Ignition Relocation Users

Ignition Switch Failure

I have an '06 RIII Std., and the ignition switch has completely failed and must be replaced.

I'm considering buying the Rivco Ignition Relocation Kit, so I can attach a leather bag to the metal bracket on the inside of my windshield.

I was hoping someone could tell me what all is involved with removing the ignition switch from its original location. What else has to be removed to gain access to and allow removal of the ignition switch?

Thanx,

Gene
 
Good question. It's not terribly difficult to remove but you may have to work at it awhile.

First, remove the horn cover. I was able to continue to the switch from here but others have also removed the headlight assembly and rotated it out of the way.

On each site of the lower portion of the switch assembly are small bolts that have the breakaway heads on them. Torque bolts I think they are called. Anyway, you can see that each one has a small cone left on the end of the bolt. The bolts are not in there very tight so I was able to use the end of a flat head screwdriver to work them back out. Others have used a dremmel to cut a slot in the top which would be a lot easier. NOTE: make sure that you are working on the right bolts. There is another set of torque bolts higher up on the assembly. You don't want to touch them.

Once the bolts are out you can simply unplug the harness from under the tank.

The Rivco kit provides these instructions. They can be viewed here: http://www.rivcoproducts.com/instructions/download/TR3080_booklet.pdf
 
The headlights are powered through the ignition with no relay to up the amps, I think this is causing the switch melt down. I am working out a way to fix this by installing relays to the circut at the connections near the headstock. This should reduce the current flow through the ignition switch. I also noticed the earth wire from the headlights is small gauge and would be adding to the problem. When a wire gets hot it tempers the wire making it stiff this is how I am tracing the problem.

PS. Please add any ignition fault cases to my thread called: Ignition switch will TRIUMPH stand by it's product
 
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Hey fellas, I read on the dot com site that some of the other captains were having the same problem and found that the ignition was picking up heat from the back of the engine causing the HOT KEY and the ignition to go bad. I read that they wrapped the wires and the ignition with some special tape that reflects heat and insulated the ignition from all the heat from the back of the engine. Makes sense that if your key was too hot to touch that this is what is happening. Just a thought.

Big T
 
The way I understood the switch failure when mine was replaced, it's a weakness in the switch assy itself. Just your basic piece of **** waiting for the wrong time to shoot craps. If your running the old one and it hasn't failed, it will. 2009's have the new one, and thats that. The tech gave me the impression that every bike prior should have a new switch and triumph should eat it. I don't think he liked the old design very much. lol
His bad attitude about it probably stemed from having to replace all the key locks at warranty flat rate along with it.
I'm assuming that just moving it closer to a heat source probably speeds its demise.
 
Gothlander said:
The headlights are powered through the ignition with no relay to up the amps, I think this is causing the switch melt down.
Click to expand...
I killed mine by adding driving lights to the headlights without a relay .... so you are right on the money.
 


Sounds like a good idea let us know how it works out. That's a mod I would be interested in doing myself.
 
My 05 switch went out (side mount), after replacing it I put insulation between the ignition switch and the motor. I used a high temp piece of gasket I got from work sort of like a shield. I really don't know if this will help but it made me feel better.
 
When I replaced my I used some 'heat tape' that I got from Summit Racing.

Summit Racing SUM-350104 - Summit Racing® Heat Tape - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I wrapped the wiring as well as the back of the ignition and I haven't had a hint of heat coming through the key anymore.

I also put it on the bottom of my aftermarket hardbags to keep the exhaust off of the bottoms.

I highly recommend it for those having heat related issues.... outside of exhaust pipe getting too hot ( use exhaust wrap or ceramic coat them)
 
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