Ignition Relocation Users

[RatBoy]

A question for the Captains that have put in the Rivco ignition relocation kit...

Have any of you experienced:
(1) trouble restarting after a long ride?
(2) REALLY hot ignition key after a long ride?

I have and I'm wondering if anyone else has had the same experience.

Why?
Because, the R3 wouldn't restart after a long ride. The headlights were out, but the parking lights would work. The dash would light, the fuel would pressurized and the starter relay would click when I pushed the starter button, and I burned the hell out of my fingers extracting the key from the ignition.

I've since found out that my ignition switch went into the crapper to the tune of $172 bucks for a new ignition switch (deal with two different keys) or $300+ for a 'lock kit' that replaces the ignition, the gas cap, and the right side cover key.

So, I'm wondering if I just had a bad switch to begin with or does having the ignition in close proximity to the rear of the engine eventually cause the ignition to fry.

I'm not looking for guidance as to how to fix the problem, I'd just like to know if anyone else has experienced this problem, or am I the only 'lucky' soul.

Thanks,
Phil

 

[tdragger]

There have been ignition switch failures for those that have and have not installed the relocation kit. I was one who installed the kit and yes I did have an ignition switch failure. However, I never had the symptoms you describe. The key was never hot or anything like that. I made sure when I routed the cable harness to zip tie it to the frame so it would not come into contact with the engine.

I had to go the 2 key route but I'm going to try to switch the tumblers so that I can go back to 1 key.

 

[Toystoretom]

I wonder.... if the hot key wasn't caused by heat from the engine but rather a point of high resistance in your ignition switch right before it burned out. If the key was so hot that it actually almost burned you I would suspect the latter. Therefore your switch probably would have took a crap even if you had not moved it.

If you still have the old switch I would disassemble it and check for burned contacts. A little motorcycle CSI action, maybe you will get your own show

 

[RatBoy]

Good to know

Thanks Fellas, I was hoping that it was just a crappy switch to begin with.

I had rerouted the extension via wire loom and zip tied to the frame and di-greased the connections when installed.

The key would get really hot and a long ride. I will attempt to 'csi' the switch to determine if there are burnt contacts.

I did determine that the 'plunger' (defined as the silver, circular bar that moves in and out when you change the position of the key in the switch) is floating when I moved the switch around. If I orient the switch to its 'factory' orientation, everything works properly. When I change the orientation from factory, the 'plunger' moves slightly outward, killing the ignition/headlights. When I move it back to factory orientation, everything works again.

 

[tdragger]

The silver plunger that you are referring to, is it the steering head locking mechanism? If so, it is not used in the relocated position.

 

[RatBoy]

Yeah, it may be...

But for some reason, it's causing the switch to short out. I'll try to get some vid of it and post it.

 

[wingandaprayer]

Yeah, it may be...

But for some reason, it's causing the switch to short out. I'll try to get some vid of it and post it.

Then don't turn the key to the LOCK position. No need to, doesn't do a thing to make the bike more secure.
The fork lock plunger maybe hitting something and causing the switch housing to to flex/tweak out of position. Try rotating the kety housing to a different orientation.

wing

 

[RatBoy]

I did determine that the 'plunger' (defined as the silver, circular bar that moves in and out when you change the position of the key in the switch) is floating when I moved the switch around.

If I orient the switch to its 'factory' orientation, everything works properly.

When I change the orientation from factory, the 'plunger' moves slightly outward, killing the ignition/headlights.

When I move it back to factory orientation, everything works again.

Winger,
I made my assessment of the switch while the switch was in my hand...

It wasn't contacting anything other than my sweaty palm.

 

[RatBoy]

Update

I went to the dealer to pick up my new ignition switch, and much to my surprise Triumph has changed the harness connector.

They are now issuing an ignition switch kit that replaces the existing harness connector. The new connector must be spliced into the main wiring harness. Apparently the new connector is weatherproof and is supposed to resolve some of the switch problems that people are having.

They aren't creating replacement switches with the old connector... the connectors used on the RIVCO Ignition relocation kit.

So, for those of us that have to replace their ignition switches and have the ignition relocation kit, you have to make a choice.

Have a dealer install the switch in its factory location, or install the switch yourself.

I'm going to install the switch myself instead of paying $80/hr for the dealer to install a $172 part. I'll post pictures and wire maps when I can.

 

[RatBoy]

Install Complete...20Minutes

Installed the new ignition switch over the weekend... piece of cake.

It's a two piece kit for those of you that have the white connector. The kit provides a replacement for the harness connector. I was disappointed to see that the connection was supposed to be made with butt connector crimped into place.

I, for one, hate those connectors so I cut them off and soldered the connections.

I soldered the new harnes connector to the end of the relocation extension by just matching/tracing the wires to the main harness.

I took a couple of minutes to wrap the new section of wiring with DEI cool wrap so that it won't overheat again and fry the new switch.

Definitely a do-it-yourselfer type fix.