Ideal tune for D&Ds & 3K&Ns

IceFyre13th said:

Put the triplets (K&N's X 3) on last weekend, D&D's are not in yet (should be here by Thursday), and I installed the Link Removed

I still have my O2 in so I checked the box to say it was installed.

Yes it is rich right now without the D&D's, but man what a power difference!!!! And the intake noise is music......

Only two questions..

Q1, Why cant I up the speed limit to 250 kph?

Q2, what advantage is there to eliminating the O2 sensor?

Thanks again Pig9r.

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Q1: I just loaded that tune into TuneEdit and paged up the speed limit past 300.

Q2: The ECU uses the O2 sensor to determine the fuel mixture at throttle positions lower than about 10% and rpm less than about 4000. It overrides or modifies the values in the fuel tables to determine the optimal mixture.

To prevent it from using the O2 sensor, the PC III comes with an "O2 sensor controller". This plugs into a cable to the ECU where the O2 sensor connector would go. It prevents the ECU from looking for an O2 sensor signal - basically fools it - so that the fuel mixture is determined only by the fuel tables in the Triumph map in the ECU and the trims in the PCIII table. You can apply a PCIII trim map in TuneEdit. This loads the PCIII trims into the Fuel % trim table. When you download the tune, the trims are applied. Alternatively, you can commit the trims to the main fuel tables - this changes the fuel tables and resets the trim table to zeros - then download the tune to the ECU.

Since there are PCIII trim values in the low throttle positions in the PCIII map for D&D's and triple filters, you want to override the O2 sensor - unchecking that box (O2 sensor connected) in TuneEdit should do the same thing as the PCIII O2 sensor controller. According to Wayne at Tuneboy, when you uncheck the box, you should unplug the O2 sensor connector (under the right cover).

Thanks Dougl, best explanation I have been given.

I removed the O2 sensor and replaced it with a plug, it is now in my tool box. Unchecked the O2 box as well/

I did get the speed limiter up, just had to use the right buttons....

The check engine light came on for a while, but has since gone out......guess this is normal as I have seen other posts reporting the same.

My D&D's are not in yet, seems the chromer they use has contaminated tanks. Due to this I asked for an alternative finish.....they said yes they will do it.

So my D&D's will either be the first set ever (or the only set) with the finish I asked for.

Right now, I enjoy the crickets in the intake that play drums..........very cool sound!!!

Surprising that the check engine light goes off. I thought that once the ECU throws a code, the only way the light goes off is to clear the code. You can use Tuneboy to get the code that tripped the light (you may need a manual to identify what the code means) and clear it. The dealer does this with the diagnostic tool.

Did you get the O2 bypass plug from Dynojet? Or did you just remove the sensor?

Pig9r said:

Did you get the O2 bypass plug from Dynojet? Or did you just remove the sensor?

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Just removed it, I have been told that this is fine with TuneBoy........Seems to be OK, or should I get the By-Pass plug?

The plug is to keep the ECU from using the O2 sensor signal to adjust the fuel, so it shouldn't be necessary when you have TuneEdit with the "O2 sensor connected" box unchecked.

I got the plug before this box was available in Tuneboy. When I got the new version of Tuneboy, I removed the plug, left the O2 sensor disconnected, and unchecked the box. I can't tell the difference.

I would get the bypass. If anything to keep the plug on the wiring harness clean.

kcc11 said:

IceFyre13th,

How did the tune work for you? I have the D & D's and will be putting the K&N's on this weekend.

Ken

Thanks to all for the tunes and info.

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Missed your post yesterday, but the tune is great.

My D&D's will be in my hands Monday, so I will know for sure if it works well with them on Tuesday.

They are on, Look Great, sound like a WWII fighter (Spitfire or P-40 with a hint of B-29)....................and the power increase is like another train engine added.

Bottom line, D&D's are the best bang for the buck.

Pig9r, I do have some popping on deceleration with the Link Removed , would the Link Removedbe better?

Thanks again

Stick with your tune and fatten it up where needed. The popping is due to a lean condition. A lot of modifications have been done on the L tables to increase fuel at low throttle position. You can get Brian's best and copy the L tables into your tune. (But you have to uncheck the O2 sensor box.).

Someone suggested solving this by trimming the 1st 2 rows of the F tables to 15% from about 1500 to 3000 rpm. Since the F tables aren't used at 0-5% throttle, this shouldn't do anything. However, this trim also adds 15% to the second row of the L tables. I'm using this now with the original L tables and it may be helping.

If you look at the PCIII trim for the D&D's you'll see values of 5-10% in the 1st two rows. When you apply this in TuneEdit, it's adding fuel to both the F and L tables. You could increase the PCIII trims in the 1st 2 rows and see what happens.